Taman Negara - The world's oldest, 130 million years old, tropical rainforest beckons you to Malaysia

There is no flat level ground.  It’s always up or down. The only level place is your hotel room !!



How does one answer the question whether it rains in a rain forest? How does one explain the awesome agony that I went through each day after just walking a mere 3 miles / 4.8 kms. of the forest … the bones and soles of my feet were on fire and my calves ached so much that I wish I were like one of our Indian deities – with multiple hands so as to massage my aching body simultaneously. Being a Muslim area, there are no foot reflexology massage places to go to. So, it was a matter of DIY after a long hard day.

Malaysia's premier national park.   Rain forests are pretty much alike in their forestation and paths…. Up and down, never a straight path. In the forest, one is always crossing over the roots and fallen branches which create the path. Spanning 4,343 sq. km and sprawled across the mountainous interiors of Kelantan, Pahang, and Terengganu is Taman Negara, Malaysia's premier national park. Formerly known as King George V National Park, in 1939, the area was declared a national park by the Sultans of the three states. The sole purpose was protection and preservation of the flora and fauna indigenous to this area.

Taman Negara is believed to be one of earth's oldest rain forests, with a history that stretches back to 130 million years. Undisturbed for a millennia, it maintains a natural habitat for a variety of flora and fauna, many of which have become highly specialized and are inter-linked with other species in both parasitic and symbolic ways. Malaysia has promoted Taman Negara as a popular tourist destination. The government ensures its continuous conservation with strict regulations. Lush riverine vegetation and trees form a giant canopy above you.  It’s an unknown and mysterious world that is reputably older than that of the Congo and Amazon.

The Rainforest: Within this area, around the central massif of Gunung Tahan (the Peninsula's highest peak at 2,187 meters), there are countless limestone hills covered in thick forest, fast running streams and abundant wildlife. The rain forest is not a quiet place. In some respects it is as noisy as any big city with a cacophony of insect noises, birdcalls, and animal cries that go on night and day. This makes it a particularly favourable destination for trekking as the park's biodiversity is matched by a good network of jungle trails and the availability of guides – its advisable to ensure that you get a registered Forest Service guide who knows the flora and fauna well rather than just a fit youngster who is out for a few bucks.

Taman Negara is definitely not for the physically challenged: from the minute you arrive at any of the jetties, you are faced with a long climb, first across the large rocks and stones which are on the water front and then up steps or as was my introduction to the place, up a steep 40 degree path which had been carved up in the mud… then came around 30 steps on a rickety ladder before I hit firm but uneven ground. Thank God, I had two small travel bags rather than a single large bag which would have been impossible to carry anywhere. Depending upon the rain, the river level fluctuates hence the rocks and floating jetties. At Mutiara Resort, there is a marker indicating the height to which it went to in 1971 – nearly 20 feet above current levels.

The route there - We leave by bus from KL’s Crowne Plaza Mutiara hotel, taking the Genting Highlands road, but exit after 40 minutes. The forested new highway is superb.  Taman Negara is not for the faint hearted. I did not see any traveller in his mid 50’s or above. There were no Americans, a few Malays [all three races], many Japanese, many Europeans and Brits who were mainly backpackers taking a few months off from work. Most of them were traversing the countries in that region so there was a healthy exchange of information of what to see, where to stay and what to avoid. We arrived at Kuala Tembling the boat jetty, after 2 ½ hours. There are only two boats a day either direction, same with the bus.

A motorized longboat takes a further 2-½ hour trip on the Sungai [river] Tembeling to Kuala Tahan [Kuala in Malay means the meeting point /junction of two rivers]. Most of the way, we saw many spongy yellowy bubble-like things floating on the river, in assorted sizes. First I thought it was rubbish in plastic bags but then realised that they were lumps of sand from the shore. This phenomenon lasted for nearly 2/3 of the way.

As you arrive into the village by boat, Taman Negara is in two sections: on the left is the main forest with the 5 star Hotel Mutiara Resort as the entry point into the forest itself. Mutiara Resort is so spread out that one has to walk a long distance from the rooms to the main facilities. 

Anybody visiting a rainforest should not stay in 5 star comforts, as it is emotionally contradictory to what a forest is all about….. ...there needs to be an element of discomfort to enjoy a jungle. Across the river, are all the other hotels with the Rainforest Resort being the best of the pack. It is therefore preferable to live on the other side where there are shops, Internet cafes, and other like-minded humans.

Packages - As soon as you reach K Tahan, a printout is given to every visitor detailing every activity / costs. So, depending upon your budget, you plan out your stay from a room with a fan or an A/C; from a simple trek to a seven-day hike with tents, guide and food. The standard travel package is 3 days/2 nights: Day 1: travel to TN and jungle walk at night which is on same path as the canopy walk. Day 2 jungle trek / canopy walk followed by lunch and shooting seven rapids and visit to an Orang Asli village. Day 3 is departure. When one travels a day each way just to reach the place, its well worth staying the extra day and spacing out activities just in case it rains and the activity is cancelled as its unsafe. I stayed for 4 days and 3 nights thereby enjoying myself more by being able to see other areas where package tourists don’t go. Actually, one can stay for nearly a week seeing various sites and camping if so inclined.

Rainforest Resort is the best this side of the river, with conference facilities and rooms in different categories. The large balcony glass doors looked out on to the forest, which was literally 30 feet away, with just a deep ditch between our rooms and the jungle. The first morning, I saw a large butterfly as if painted in silhouette on the door. Getting closer, I saw its wings gently moving. Its wingspan was the width of my 9” wide palm width, its body pencil thin and nearly 4” long. I stood and gazed fascinated at its really vibrant orangey red colours with yellow wing tips and white geometric designs on the wing itself. 

There are two major trails: the Tenor Trail, less frequented as distances to sights are far - vary 3 kms. to 19.5 kms. The Keniam Trail is more popular – there are two main routes, westwards is Lata Berkoh 8.5 kms. Eastwards is the daily tourist route of the canopy walk 1.2 kms.+ the Orang Asli village is nearby. The boat then shoots the rapids for a distance of 5 kms.

My initiation to the jungle was the walk to Lata Berkoh cascades, an area not on the usual tour route, a walk of 3 to 4 kms. and then the longboat river ride for five kms. And then, we had to walk 700m from the boating point. To start the walk in the forest, we cross the river and then climb many steps to the Mutiara Resort. Walking through the property, nearly a half km to the jungle entry point, at around 9.30am is pleasant. The minute you leave the Resort with its campsite away from the main hotel, the trail begins. The path is around 15” wide at best BUT it’s tortuously winding. The lianas and roots of the trees, especially the Murban, the Munkudo and the Tualang trees are all over. To walk, you have to carefully step on the root or in a space between roots. One false step and you have a twisted ankle
.

It’s all going up and sudden declines, and there are metal ladders placed by the Forest Division along with ropes as handrails for your convenience. In fact, what amazed me were the guides who would pick up paper tissues thrown by tourists. They are the children of forest rangers and very conscious of their heritage.  Visibility was good in that the brush generally was spaced out and one can see atleast 50 ft in the distance.

But again, stop and see, as walking without looking down is fraught with danger. It was on this walk that my brand new Nike shoes lost both their soles. There are parts where the mud is not visible. It looks dry, due to the leaves on the ground but on stepping into it, the mud clings to you. You exert to lift the shoe and take the next step. Doing this continuously for nearly 2 kms. played havoc on the left shoe and by the time we reached Lata Berkoh, the left sole was gone and the right sole was flapping away and on its way out too. I had only the stitched insoles on which I was walking by the time I reached base. I did not realize the effect of this as it’s like wearing soft soles ballet shoes – its only when you take them off and you walk on bare feet that the damage to the soles and the toes bones is felt. The evening was pure undiluted agony.   

The Murban tree is used to make furniture, the Munkudo is similar to the trees of Angkor Wat and especially reminded me of Ta Prohm where the roots of these trees are not deep into the ground but grow along the ground level, often forming 4 ft above ground high ridges with tall trunks. The Tualang tree is the highest species of tree. Generally the trees are very tall in the central forest area over 15 to 25 storeys high. Often the trunk is over 3 to 4 feet in radius. Many of them have lichen and lianas growing on them so that the tree is covered fully. The boat rides were a delight as you saw the forest in its real glory and often I counted over a dozen shades of green. Due to the overnight rain, there were many leeches … the guide obligingly would stop every so often to remove them from me.

Near Lata Berkoh, the cicadas were really noisy, as loud as a textile mill’s whistle. But then, suddenly it became quiet and they would start again. The turbulent river, generally around the width of a block of Mumbai buildings, needed a skilled boatman as there are hidden underwater rocks needing skilful navigating: the currents were overt and aggressive. The rapids were not as powerful as north Indian rapids but nonetheless for a first timer like me, they were impressive as they created a lot of noise..

The canopy walkway is a ropeway over the trees at around 35 metres / 100 feet from ground level. Nowhere in the literature do they tell you that the ropeway is a one-way system or that there are nine platforms and ten rope bridges before you touch Mother Earth again. The signs state 5 or 10 metres per section, but they seem much longer.    I hate heights but I had to experience the walkway.

Little did I know that there is no turning back until you complete the full walk.  It’s very well maintained with ropes and metal cables and due to its length; it sways upto 1½ feet in the centre. Only four persons are allowed per section. I was in the off-season with just 12 people ahead of me whereas the previous day the queue had been for over three hours.

Built in 1992, the initial part was only 180 metres but due to its popularity, it increased to 500+ m. At the end of the walk is Terasik Hill, which is 1.20 kms. from the walkway. There are two stages for views. Steep is a polite word. They say that the view is good but personally... I did not find it that exciting to half kill myself just for a view. The jungle entry to the end of the canopy is 1.14miles / 1.82 kms. The total walk seems to be 4.25 kms. from leaving the Mutiara Resort to its return. Whatever, there are steps, steps and more steps, either going up or going down but no level ground; that is my lasting memory of the rainforest.

One of the highlights of the trip is to meet the Orang Asli or Batek people, the aborigines. Orang = People and Asli = original. There are only 2,000 left throughout the country and they all stay here in three villages. The Govt pays them each time a foreigner visits. I went to see two villages; one off the beaten track had more people and was more interesting.

They live in huts made from dried tree branches. I saw 5 to 6 men, 4 to 5 women and many children. All of them facially similar to our Todas and Australian aborigines. The women were cooking cucumber, a leafy vegetable and some tubers in a metal pot over a fire. The men sat around and when we came they demonstrated how to create a fire without matches and how to blow a dart from a blowpipe [see box below]. Fascinating as the fire making was so different from other places… they use a rattan cane pulled on two sides of a soft wood which smoulders and then transferred to dried grass which in turn is blown onto to create a fire.

The blowpipe needs a steady hand and eye. They can shoot the dart over 45 metres to kill a Loris monkey, which is still part of their diet. As I left, I got a dart as the blowpipe needs a steady hand and eye. They can shoot the dart over 45 metres to kill a Loris monkey, which is still part of their diet. As I left, I got a dart as the blowpipe needs a steady hand and eye. They can shoot the dart over 45 metres to kill a Loris monkey, which is still part of their diet. As I left, I got a dart as a memento of the visit.

Other activities at Taman Negara

There is the ever-popular night safari, a 1½ hours drive in an open tempo. The disadvantage of being a single traveller is that for any facility like a jeep or a boat, one pays the cost of the full vehicle. The night sky can suddenly change from being clear to a real monsoon downpour. The only notice is the sudden sound of thunder and occasional lightning. We saw some birds and snakes. In the far distance, the guide pointed out a sleeping animal as a civet cat. The darkness and the spotlight of the vehicle reminded me of the TV programme featuring the escapades of Mad Mike and Mark in the Botswana jungles. But this was tame stuff. Lots of jungle noise but few sights.

There are spectacular rock formations in the caves nearby for cavers to explore. The limestone crop is almost eroded to ground level. But carry extra batteries for your torch with you!

Memories

Coming back to Kuala Lumpur after my trip was both a relief and a letdown. I was happy that I had finished with my endless walking up and down and the days would be pain free. But KL with its concrete jungle and super restaurants was a far cry from well preserved Mother Nature. The fines are stiff for breaking rules or for polluting the environment, so everybody seems to behave. How long the rainforest will last with Malaysia’s changing climatic conditions I don’t know. I feel that visits to such an environment are essential for students to understand life and history; so that they get a feel of their heritage, the tremendous psychological high of walking in a jungle at night, the experience of shooting rapids or far above the ground in an aerial ropeway so that you see the many birds and distant sights of the jungle. Nothing can surpass such an experience.  There are no words to explain the excruciating agony of the soles of your feet after a day’s hike avoiding the roots and mud. So, go explore and have fun before the jungle disappears.  

To conclude, this was a conversation between a fellow passenger and me on my flight back home:

Pax: this was my first trip to Malaysia and Singapore. Sir, the shopping in Singapore was really amazing; my missus and family were shopping in that little India from 9.00 pm to 4.00am. Carrying those bags killed my back; I had just been operated last year. Are you with family here?

Me: No, I am alone.

Pax: Oh, so you travel by yourself? Where are your wife and family? Where did you go?

Me: I went to a rain forest near KL. I wanted to see it before it disappears. It’s a jungle.

Pax: Does it rain in a rain forest? What do you do there?

So, how does one explain to a shopping crazy fellow traveller what Taman Negara is all about? He’d never believe it!!

Box 1:

Flora Fauna: Over 10,000 species of plants, 350 species of birds. Local mammals include mouse deer, barking deer, tapirs, wild boars, elephants, leopards, tigers, and monkeys.
Recreation: Bird watching, cave exploration, jungle trekking, white-water rafting, fishing, guided nature walks, mountain climbing, and more.

Box 2:

The making of a blowpipe:

The dart is made from the Mariante tree’s bark... the rattan is ideal as its firm yet supple. It is then polished with the leaf of the sandpaper tree, which is exactly like our sandpaper, a few rubs, and the dart is smooth.

Pulai wood is used for the actual base of the dart. It’s very soft and very light. Again sandpaper tree leaves are used to make it round, soft and smooth for flight out of the blowpipe. The Abos use Tanjun tree glue to fix the dart’s end to the dart base.

Don’t forget the blowpipe is around 7 to 8 ft long and has a hard outer layer covering it to safeguard it from the rains. The main pipe is made from Kamayun bamboo, which is found only in the deep forest. The cover itself is made from bamboo but as they don’t get such long lengths easily, they burn and stretch the bamboo to make it straight.

Box 3:

TRENGGAN LODGE Deeper in the heart of Taman Negara lies Trenggan Lodge, at Kuala Trenggan. A quiet retreat enveloped by nothing but the green high-rises of nature. To get there, you have to travel upstream on Sungai (River) Tembeling where you will encounter a series of pulsating rapids and countless creatures such as otters. Once there, you will be greeted by a world where total tranquillity reigns. And charming chalets, which reflect the rustic ambience.

RAINFOREST RESORT  is at K Tahan, 70 kms. from Jerantut town, which is 20 mins drive from the jetty point of K Tembling or 240 kms. North east of Kuala Lumpur. 3 star resort with all facilities for conferences as well as FIT Tourists stay. It has rooms segregated into standard / superior and deluxe rooms; suites; 2 bed-roomed cottages. Transport services to the jetty area are free.

Text and photographs copyright of the author. No part of this article or photographs maybe transmitted or reproduced by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without written permission. Do contact the author on email.

Watching Nature’s Wonder of the World – an unforgettable awesome experience

The area where the turtles come to hatch - Eastern India

Fishing boats on Chilka lake 

PITCH black night. Couldn't see a thing!

It’s a pitch black night as we are in the no moon phase – we can’t see a step ahead of us except for the occasional quick burst from our guide’s torch. Yet, we are walking along a beach at 11.30 pm in Rushikulya, Ganjam district, Orissa to see for ourselves what I consider Nature’s unique natural out-of-this-world phenomenon each year. 

                                               Since 2003, The Vasant Sheth Memorial Foundation of Mumbai supports an NGO promoting community conservation of the Olive Ridley turtles at Rushikulya. Run by a dedicated 18 years experienced expert, Rabi Sahu has revolutionized the mindset of the local people towards this species. As a Trustee, I went to see the work being done by Sahu and his volunteers. I came back humbled and awed at Nature’s unique creativity

Sahu giving a talk to school children. Very dedicated guy.

Can you imagine a minute living creature, just 20 gms at birth, which never ever sees its father or mother? It emerges from an egg laid along with 100 to 150 other eggs in a single 18 inches deep nest, scrabbling, clawing and climbing over each other..

An amazing sight as they pour out of the nest

Then like a lemming, with thousands others, it single mindedly is focused on only one thing – survival - to avoid the various death traps in its path and to reach the sea where it will possibly survive. When mature, like salmons, sea turtles will return to the same place where they were born to nest and lay their eggs. 

torchlight attracts them.

Then back to the sea. The cycle repeats itself every few years. It was that time of the year when millions of mass hatchings take place and that’s why we were here to see this awesome phenomenon.

We had driven over one km on mud track, across fields, to reach Gokharkuda. In the SUV’s headlights, I saw Kevda trees on both sides. We finally stopped in a village and Rabi asked permission from forest rangers to see the hatchings. Generally this is not allowed but due to our support of the breed, we were permitted to proceed within limits. We crossed a narrow bridge (designed to stop cars) and then across a yet narrower gully lined with cement bags which are used as stepping stones when water floods the gully. Our walking path soon became a sand track.

See the baby in relation to my palm !

We walked for ½ km along the beach and then I saw my first baby turtle scuttling along towards the river. Then further up, we saw hundreds - I picked one up – it was miniscule – size of 2 – 3” diameter, half my palm size. Its eyes were open. We counted eight nests in a ten foot circle area. We saw over 50 to 70 babies in just two nests. Saw the opening of one nest actually being created by a single emerging baby, followed a few minutes later by a few more, all scrabbling over each other. Then, amazingly, whilst still recovering from that sight, the light reflected off a pair of translucent eyes in the path of the turtles and the water – it turned out to be a red crab hiding right under the sand waiting for its next meal.

One of the crabs waiting to eat newborns

Crabs generally create a nest right next to turtle nests and pull emerging babies into it. Its pincers are very powerful and babies are helpless. The crabs very fast and vicious. We saw many such crabs and when they felt our feet on the sand, they scuttled away.

The most fascinating feature of Olive Ridley is their mass nesting habit called ‘arribada’ meaning mass arrival in Spanish. Ridleys choose narrow beaches near estuaries and bays to lay eggs –both the beaches we went to were exactly that. Each adult female lays approximately 100-150 eggs at a time. It is believed that they nest in an interval of one-four years. The mating takes place in December – January about eight kms away on the high seas and apparently if one is on a boat, you can actually touch a mating pair. Then in February – March, the mother comes ashore to lay its eggs. The conservation groups have now learned the importance of saving the babies and have a 0% poaching level in Rushikuliya district. The eggs develop over 7 – 10 weeks and it’s only in late April that they hatch. It had rained four days earlier so the sand had smoothened and with the subsequent day’s heat, it became hard packed so the cycle got delayed by few days – good for us as we were right there during the birthing period.

One needs to be very careful when walking the beach – the nests are higher up the shore line and when walking, you realize you may be over a nest when the sand seems to crumble underfoot. Hence wearing sandals is obligatory and avoiding the beach at birthing is now mandatory so that the babies don’t get trampled. Yet even then, whilst there, we saw the Governor, the Collector and various other Forest officials along with retinue, without which a Government official feels neglected, going to the beach. One hopes that they followed the same rules they laid down for us lesser mortals. 

Local fisherman rescuing baby hatchlings from the nets

 A tedious slow process

I had wondered why we had to go at night to see the babies when surely this was a 24 hour process! Actually the babies hatch at night and due to their ability to see “a brighter horizon”, they go to the sea. Unfortunately, these days, that horizon could be the lights of an industrial zone rather than the natural luminescence over water. We found many trapped in the fishing nets kept rolled up on the beach at Podampetta. This beach is really beautiful – over 3 kms of pristine white sand, crystal clear waters and no tourists. But for the hatchlings, whilst emerging, they got trapped on the nets kept near the fishing boats on the beach.                                                        

So, we freed many of them and put them near the water but sure enough, found them back tracking as they were being attracted to our torch light which was needed to cut them free! 

Rushikuliya is the third largest rookery for nesting in India. It’s heartening to see the local fisher folk supporting the efforts of the Wildlife Institute of India & local NGO’s and co-existing with the turtles. The community based approach to save them needs to be followed at other such sites too. Meanwhile Nature’s unique cycle of mass hatchings has just finished this year.

A village procession nearby.

Text and photographs copyright of the author. No part of this article or photographs maybe transmitted or reproduced by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without written permission. Do contact the author on email.