Fes - a walk into its Imperial past

The loud harsh cry of BALAK, occasionally followed by ANDAK, a warning cry of ‘Watch out! Careful’ from a mule owner resonates across the narrow crowded bye lanes in the souk.  

They cart all sorts of heavy loads – gas cylinders, water, various household items and passersby miraculously merge into the nearest building wall creating a space where none existed before. The souk is an unbelievable sight transporting you back hundreds of years as nothing apparently has changed over centuries in the lifestyle of the Fes traders.

Fes, as per our guide, is the spiritual, cultural and crafts capital of Morocco; a country conjuring up many images. When you add Fes, Marrakesh, Casablanca, Rabat, you have an Aladdin’s cave of cities with wonderful pasts and hidden images which need exploring. Fes, now a UNESCO Heritage site – a title which it jealously guards - is actually one of four imperial cities – Rabat, Marrakesh and Meknes being the others. Each city was built to dazzle. Each outshines the other in its splendor. To find out which one I liked, I did the 1,047 km trip linking them and found myself on a journey into Morocco’s history. It was fascinating as I found vast differences between the north and the south and apart from fascinating beautiful Fes, my favourite was the desert region of Ouarzazate and Zagora, but that’s another article!

When you arrive into Fes, by train from Rabat, it seems like an ocean of flat roofs. Interspersed with soaring minarets. There is a succession of terraces following the banks of the Wadi Fes. But like anywhere in Morocco, be prepared to walk and climb, as invariably you will find paths and steps everywhere, with rarely a flat area except parts of the new town. The number of ups and downs in the Medina are unbelievable, it’s tiring, and I am surprised they have not thought of scooter taxis!

  

Fes is a city of multiple facets. Apart from the European part of Fes with its broad boulevards built after WW 1, there is Fes el Jedid and Fes el Bali – one does not realize these differences until you walk the streets. In Fes el Bali, there are two distinctly different districts. During the 8^th century, there were over 9,000 Arab families who had settled on the right bank of Wadi Fes as they had been expelled from Andalusia. About a century later, nearly 2,000 Kerouan families settled on the opposite bank. The Arabs brought a rich heritage of culture in their art and civilization at its peak, as can be seen from the splendid decorations in the Andalousian mosque and the Es Sahrij Medressa.

The Kerouans were equally important to Fes’ growth. Their heritage includes the rich Quaraouiyyin mosque. (Words in Morocco are spelt in different ways depending upon the language – French, Spanish, Arabic or the Berber dialects of Tarifit, Tashelhiyt & Tamazight). 

This was the first university in the western world. Today it continues its importance as an intellectual centre for religious studies. Built in 859, by a pious lady, it eventually became an architectural complex over 12 centuries. This mosque is renowned for its mihrab, the Almoravid precious domes of carved plaster, several arches and colonnades, the two magnificent Saadian pavilions modeled on Granada’s Alhambra, the pulpit made of precious wood and inlaid ivory from Cordoba, the huge chandelier and the transformed bells into chandeliers in the nave. The University has 17 gates and has 30,000 faithful each Friday noon prayers.

Fes el Jedid has a different past. In the 13^th C, the Merinides found Fes el Bali too small for their grandiose palaces so outside the city walls they added gardens, mosques, schools and souks. This was new Fes or Fes el Jedid. Fes was the first capital of the realm in 809 under Idriss II and then again in the 13^th C under the Merinides and in the 19^th C under Moulay Abdullah. The contribution of each successive ruler is clearly visible even today.

Part of the heritage and today a tourist’s delight is staying in a Riad; a family home built around a central courtyard. In the past, privacy was paramount as can be seen with the high mud brick walls, often extending upto 3 or 4 floors, and despite the narrow lanes, due to the thickness of the walls, coolness prevailed inside. There are no elevators (lifts) and bathing facilities as a rule were often at the public hammam (bathing house – separate for each sex). But about 20 years ago, an enterprising Frenchman converted one of these into a Riad, let tourists stay and that concept became so popular that many homes converted across the country, and today you have even 7-star Riads! The Government tourist office through its Ziyarates Fes project supports Moroccan families with limited means who wish to be part of the city’s growth and help tourists immerse into the social, cultural and spiritual aspects of Fes by staying with these families. We stayed in a Riad, in the medina, with its own private terrace, with a magnificent view over the city – the only fallout was the 56 step climb to our rooms, with each riser being over 12” high!! A killer but well worth the effort. The Riads in the Medina or old town are far more interesting, more historic as they are usually old structures renovated and part of the daily noisy chaotic life of the medina itself; walk out and you are in the souk.

Bab Boujloud is one of the main entrances to the Medina or old City. Two adjacent doors bear this name. The older of the two 12^th C doors has arches and domes and a curved entrance. This door branches off into the Sellaline st. (reed basket makers street). The second door built in the 20^th C has a main arch and two smaller lateral arches. Its façade is decorated with green zellij on the inside and the typical blue green zellij famous workmanship is on the outside .This door is a attractive due to its strategic position, its architectural elements, and balanced decorations.

The Medina or old city has more than 9,000 streets and you are guaranteed to not only lose yourself there without a guide and you will never cover all those lanes. We were lucky in that we got an excellent guide to take us around. Every major street has five important free public services - public bakery * a public fountain * a mosque * a washing area or hammam and * a kindergarten school for the locality.

Fes is the capital of handicrafts… each of the imperial cities specializes in a particular tradition. Fassi leather work, copper trays and the famed Blue pottery are world renowned items. We covered in three hours (half day fee Euro 25.00) all the main sights. 

\The narrowest street is barely the width of one’s outstretched arms; marauding Arab horsemen could not turn within such restricted spaces. The leather tanneries create the best leather items in Morocco.

The Fonduks or caravanserais of old – the famous Skin Traders fonduk or the Carpenters’ fonduk which are popular and the Kissarias or traditional shopping arcades were awesome.

Derb Touil meaning a long lane, is mentioned in the Merinides chronicles, had many ‘drazes’ or skilled workshops specializing in traditional fabric making as cloth weaving was an integral and important part of Fassi culture. In 14^th C, there were around 3,100 weaving workshops but in the 16^th C, it dropped to 520 workshops employing 20,000 people.

 To wander through a souk is a fascinating glorious experience. Initially, an assault on one’s senses and then a feast.  Small alleys on either side of Talaa Kebira Street lead to the lanes where craftsmen work. One is astounded at the variety of shops selling wares of every type and description.

You have, like in the old parts of Mumbai, lanes selling a single item… spices, slippers, meat, wooden furniture or jewellery.   You will find swords, rings, Moroccan slippers and caftans, heaps of dry fruits (walnuts, almonds, cashews, raisins etc) and spices (cinnamon, turmeric etc). It’s a colourful display of often high quality Fassi wares. You name it, it’s available.

BUT, there is one essential element which you need to remember – never go to a shop, buy a souvenir item and walk out. The Moroccan tradition, and which each shopkeeper appreciates, is when  a buyer walks in, feigns total disinterest in an item, is about to walk out but suddenly inquires about the prices of some item. The seller quotes, the prospects deigns interest. This bargaining is even done over a glass of mint tea if the seller thinks there is a possible sale. Lots of inane pleasantries are exchanged; if you are an Indian, they talk about Bollywood with great affection and often recite lines of popular songs!  By now, you may not even want to buy, it doesn’t matter to the seller… he still has you in his grip. After the price has been reduced by you to around 50% of the original value, and sufficient time is spent over the bargaining to satisfy the honour of the seller, you leave very happy with a good bargain, forgetting that the seller has still made a good sale! Its fun, it’s a win-win for both sides and it’s so Moroccan. If you know the tradition, start by saying that whilst you know the shop keeper is giving Moroccan prices, you want the Berber price! …the Berber is a close fisted hard bargainer and demands low rates, hence the term…. Berber price!

Fes is different from the other cities in that whilst you have new Fes, the old true Fes remains dominant and vibrantly alive in everyone’s daily life and thrives like it has for centuries. Casa, Marrakesh and Rabat have undergone a sea change but Fes remains true to its history. Its remains a multi faceted city of incomparable splendour.

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