Lima - the ancient ruins of Pachacamac bring alive an ancient civilization

Pachacamac - an important Inca city before the Spaniard invasion

This is a view of the high Andes which we crossed to come into Lima, a fascinating city.

We decided that instead of walking around shopping malls and museums, we would go for the day to the ancient archaeological site of Pachacamac and the village of Ichimay Wary, an artisan’s cooperative, based around Lurin. It was a round trip of 95 kms, so one can estimate around 37 kms to Pachacamac. The route is south east of Lima – we took the Pan American Highway which goes from Quito (Ecuador) to Santiago (Chile). It’s an excellent road, except for a few kms near Lurin, 3 – 4 lanes each way, and one can drive from Lima to Chile a distance of 1,300 kms easily.

En route, we passed through various suburbs, getting lower end as we reached our destination. These local structures are not more than two storeys, rather rough in finish and basically just huts or sheds with a door and aluminum roofing. On our way back, we came back via San Isidro on our left side and saw beautiful skyscrapers dotting the landscape.

One of the most intriguing areas was San Salvador – a vast industrial zone – which stretches for kilometres! All the way, we saw huge high hills of sand with excavation going on under or nearby on a large scale.  There were low walls vertically down hill (like the walls in a Yorkshire moor) marking ownership of land! It’s surprising that with the area being earthquake prone, there are structures, factories and mines built right under these huge hills. 

How is it that they don’t have landslides during the heavy rainy season? We really were awed by the size of these sand hills and the huge excavations. The road finally ends with an oil refinery and many tankers queuing up. The locality is very poor. 

Pachacamac does not compare to Machu Picchu but still it is quite impressive. This was an important Inca site and a major city when the Spanish invaded. it was a ceremonial Centre for the Lima culture beginning AD 100 but was later expanded by the Waris before being taken over by the next culture, the Ichsma! When the Incas arrived, they added other structures in this locality. 

The name Pachacamac can be variously translated as "He who animated the world " or "He who created Land and Time". It comes from the Wari God who is represented by a wooden two-faced image which can be seen in the Museum at the venue.

Today, most of the buildings are in the form of rubble or piles of bricks and sand. Some of the main temples have been excavated and the ramps and the side steps are visible. If you climb the Temple of the Sun, point #9, you can get excellent views of the far coastline on a clear day but that was not to be the case when we went!  

There was a major earthquake in 2007 and as a result structures have been left unstable, and as a result, visitors are allowed only up to a certain point.

At Pachacamac, there is a lot of construction work going on. Though the museum is sign posted, it’s actually a guard hut! The new structure is being built and I think in a few months it should be ready for visitors.  

 

There is heavy security like everywhere in Peru. We identified ourselves as visitors and proceeded to the information desk, where we bought tickets for ourselves and the driver. As senior citizens, we got a discount of 50%! Luckily, the car was permitted as the area is vast and the general impression is that walking the full route will take at least 3 hours, whereas in a car, you can do it in 45 minutes, going not more than the standard speed of 25 kmph. This of course takes into account that you stop only at certain major points like we did! There are a total of 12 areas marked out and we did 1, 2, 3, 5, 9 and 12. The Point # 9 means a long walk up a hill so I was not keen to go hiking for 30 minutes only to find something less meaningful (one can never be sure) so I avoided it.

Site # 2 Yschma culture 900 – 1470 AD**

These vast constructions were used as administrative centres or they believe as palaces. Seventeen such pyramids have been traced and identified within the temple complex. This particular structure is composed of several platforms overlaid on top of each other. It is accessed by a central ramp located in front of a large patio. The building includes buried deposits, closed spaces, storage rooms, and roads connecting each area. It appears to have served as a place for both public rituals and admin work.  

Site #3**

This important route to the temple complex was defined and delineated by tall walls of stone and adobe. As of now, its 332 metres long and between 2.0 and 4.70 metres wide. It forms an intersection with the East – West Street that divides the city into four parts.

We went onward by car, often overtaking many walkers. We found the place is made up of stone pyramids and Adobe. Each of these designated areas is far and wide. The whole of the archaeological site must be a few kilometres wide.

What I really enjoyed and appreciated that the local school children are brought by the bus load to see the site – at every point, I saw teachers explaining details to children, all poised with note books in hand and really enthusiastic. Not like in other countries where kids see it as a chore.

The paths are just rough tracks and its essential to move ahead slowly. in a rain storm, it must be a quagmire!!

Here is a detail of a building with bricks clearly visible.

Site #5**  Inca period – 1470 =- 1533 AD – Palace of Tauri Chumpi

This residential building is located in the eastern sector of the city. It consists of two connected plazas on the north side surrounded by precincts, platforms, deposits, and other structures linked by ramps and corridors. According to Spanish historians, at the arrival of the conquerors, the curaca Tauri Chumpi lived in this palace and was in charge of redistributing goods and resources throughout the valley as well as managing the local cults and population.

Everywhere the guards were vigilant and immediately blew a whistle if any walker crossed the marked area. 

Site # 11 Mamacona / Acllawasi**

Inca period 1470 – 1533 AD

The Mamacona was built by the Inca for women dedicated to the cult of the Sun God and for the production of fine goods for the temple complex. The building has three sections – the large structure with galleries and staircases, precincts between them and thirdly, large open patios. Typical Inca architecture can be identified in the trapezoidal niches within and around rooms, decorated ashlars and windows. There are also several ponds within the complex which had ceremonial functions  

Site #12 Springs and canals**  The sanctuary of Pachacamac was supplied with water from a complex and well designed system of springs and feeder canals which exploited the outcrops and springs across the valley. Canals are identified with wells and were made essentially from quadrangular stone blocks which were designed to control water flow.

This is a statue in memory of Sr Julio Tello Rojas - 1881 to 1947 - who was instrumental in finding this site and leading the digging.

There is a visitors centre and cafe at the side entrance. One can also get a map of the site from the information booth. The cafe has a few stalls selling llocal handicrafts and artefacts, jewellery, wooden sculptures, some fabrics and other knickknacks!

** The author would like to acknowledge that data marked ** on each site stated was as per data from the site.


Text and photographs copyright of the author. No part of this article or photographs maybe transmitted or reproduced by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without written permission. Do contact the author on email -- helpthesun@gmail.com