The world's second highest dam - Nurek

In Central Asian countries like Tajikistan and Uzbekistan, which have long been under Soviet rule or under Dictatorship and only now experiencing relative freedom, there are occasions when you ask a question and there is no answer to your query except for a shrug or a different answer.

Same applied to our trip to the Nurek Dam. We were a few days early before we joined our group across these two countries so as we had time to spare we took a trip to see Nurek Dam, on the River Vaksh in Tajikistan. It is the largest earth filled dam and the second tallest dam in the world. Begun in 1961, it was completed by 1980. 

The Nurek Dam was constructed by the Soviet Union and is uniquely constructed, with a central core of cement forming an impermeable barrier within a 300 m (980 ft)-high rock and earth fill construction. The volume of the mound is 54 million m³. The dam includes nine hydroelectric generating units, the first commissioned in 1972 and the last in 1979

The dam is located in a deep gorge along the Vaksh River in western Tajikistan, about 75 km (47 mi) east of the nation's capital of Dushanbe. There is a pleasant tree lined township near the dam, also called Nurek, houses engineers and other workers employed at the dam's power plant.

The reservoir created by the dam is the largest reservoir in the country. It is a popular weekend resort for the local population from around Dushanbe and this area. The water fuels the hydro electric plant and is used for irrigation of around 700 sq kms of farmland – transported 14 kms through the Dangara irrigation tunnel. 

It took 90 mins. for us to travel the 60 kms from Dushanbe to Nurek. We had an excellent guide with us who we pumped for information on the country. The drive there was very pleasant – we crossed many kms of vineyards and en route we saw many stalls selling different types of fruit. We bought some grapes from one of these stalls. -

On arrival, we could hear the roar of water before seeing it – it came from a rather large hole in the dam wall – suddenly it just came – a huge wall of water nonstop. It seemed they had opened some gates in the lake to let water go downhill. The water colour was an unbelievable blue. 

As courtesy required and as per law, we stopped to meet the local cop in charge of the security post. We found that the Army were not allowing any visitors as the Chinese and Tajik ministers were visiting (were they ministers ? – I doubt it as they came only in one car and no escorts) so we were told to go back. So, I decided to play upon his ego and started speaking to the Major using my guide as translator. We talked about him, his duties as a soldier, the duration of being a way from family, the toughness of such isolation etc. We shared nuts and grapes which we brought from the car. Eventually, he agreed that we could park the car a bit far from direct view and he would let us know as soon as the VIP’s went. Over an hour passed whilst we sat waiting. Well worth it.

We went through a security gate and climbed right up to the top, 300 metres up. There is an awesome view of the whole dam with the township below. There was just one family in a Mercedes car which showed that this person had some clout to belong up here at the top. The countryside is extremely hilly with grape vineyards everywhere.    We spent some time on the dam site as well as surrounds before returning back to Dushanbe. 

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Interacting with mountain shepherds in Iskander kul, Tajikistan

Our group proceeded from Lake Iskander kul upwards into the Fann mountains.  We were to stay in the mountains for two nights. The lake is turquoise, calm and surrounded by great ranges of Fann Mountains.  It’s known far beyond Tajikistan borders. It is one of the most spectacular and picturesque places in Fann area.

The countryside upwards was bleakly beautiful. High mountains, barren country for the most part for miles. Winding mountain roads. We had to go through 22 tunnels and the longest was 6 kms long – quite an experience for me when all we have gone through are those less than a ¼ km in length. 

Fann Mountains are a popular tourist destination and weekend spot with locals. It’s also a great trekking and climbing destination.  The highest peaks in the region: Chimtarga (5,487m), Chapdara (5,050m), Bodkhona (5,138m), Zamok (5,070m), Maria (4,970m), Mirali (5,120m), and Zindon (4,800m).

Fann Mountains has rich flora and fauna which is fairly unique and diverse. There are more than 2,000 species of plant, including many known curative herbs. 

High vegetation includes:  walnut, poplar, birch, sallow, hawthorn, sea-buckthorn, barberry, dog-rose, and currant bushes.

The fauna is represented by snow leopard, bear, mountain goat, Marco Polo sheep, wild boar, wolf, fox, rabbit, marmot etc. As for birds, there are mountain geese, snowcock, partridges, pigeons, eagles, gryphons, hawks and many others. 

As we climbed upwards, the road stopped being a road and became a dirt track with boulders by the wayside and rocks under us. It was along uncomfortable drive. We passed stone huts where the peasants, essentially women and children, live in the summer months tending their goats. Its a very hard life as water and every other need has to be brought up the mountain where they live. They don’t stay by the river due to fear of flash floods

Our guest house at Sarytag village was unusual. There were the group members, the four drivers, the four assistants to them, the locals staying on the premises. For us all, we had one bathroom inside which was allocated to the women and one bathroom outside for the men. Frankly, it was too bloody cold by evening to go out for one’s needs.... many of us just used the inside loo. The water was a trickle and the word “hot water” non existent. It was poor luke warm at best.  We shared the bedrooms downstairs – four to a room. The drivers etc and staff slept on the floor upstairs in the dining room. The conical shapes at each corner are actually cupboard spaces on the inside of the room 

There were two inter actions with the local shepherds. One was this visit to a shepherd’s hut way up a cliff side. The other was a cooking demonstration on how they make pilaf. I avoided the latter as having experienced the local food for two days I knew that it would be a dismal event. 


The visit to the shepherd hut required you to be having nimble feet and ability to climb like a goat........not quite but just about especially the last 15 feet to the hut!!

Getting to the huts was at first by SUV or walking – i preferred the former as i don’t like mountain climbing. Then we forded the small stream and started climbing. There was no alternative. The water was just amazing in colour. The blues changed hue every few metres.  

The ladies answered our personal questions with frankness – our guide doing the translation. The photos speak volumes about their lifestyle.

Afterwards, a shepherd, his wife and young daughter entertained us. He played his violin type instrument and she danced. 

Of the five dances, they did two Indian songs which when you think about it, is quite awesome as this was way up in the Fann mountains and here we are listening to Hindi songs sung originally by yester year Bollywood giants. The whole scene took place by the river bank and we then all contributed a gift for the family.

It was our group leader’s birthday and someone had arranged a cake to be brought all the way from Dushanbe!! We celebrated her birthday in style with cake and wine and then had bonfire later to keep the chill away. 

Text and photographs copyright of the author. No part of this article or photographs maybe transmitted or reproduced by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without written permission. Do contact the author on email -- helpthesun@gmail.com