Interacting with mountain shepherds in Iskander kul, Tajikistan

Our group proceeded from Lake Iskander kul upwards into the Fann mountains.  We were to stay in the mountains for two nights. The lake is turquoise, calm and surrounded by great ranges of Fann Mountains.  It’s known far beyond Tajikistan borders. It is one of the most spectacular and picturesque places in Fann area.

The countryside upwards was bleakly beautiful. High mountains, barren country for the most part for miles. Winding mountain roads. We had to go through 22 tunnels and the longest was 6 kms long – quite an experience for me when all we have gone through are those less than a ¼ km in length. 

Fann Mountains are a popular tourist destination and weekend spot with locals. It’s also a great trekking and climbing destination.  The highest peaks in the region: Chimtarga (5,487m), Chapdara (5,050m), Bodkhona (5,138m), Zamok (5,070m), Maria (4,970m), Mirali (5,120m), and Zindon (4,800m).

Fann Mountains has rich flora and fauna which is fairly unique and diverse. There are more than 2,000 species of plant, including many known curative herbs. 

High vegetation includes:  walnut, poplar, birch, sallow, hawthorn, sea-buckthorn, barberry, dog-rose, and currant bushes.

The fauna is represented by snow leopard, bear, mountain goat, Marco Polo sheep, wild boar, wolf, fox, rabbit, marmot etc. As for birds, there are mountain geese, snowcock, partridges, pigeons, eagles, gryphons, hawks and many others. 

As we climbed upwards, the road stopped being a road and became a dirt track with boulders by the wayside and rocks under us. It was along uncomfortable drive. We passed stone huts where the peasants, essentially women and children, live in the summer months tending their goats. Its a very hard life as water and every other need has to be brought up the mountain where they live. They don’t stay by the river due to fear of flash floods

Our guest house at Sarytag village was unusual. There were the group members, the four drivers, the four assistants to them, the locals staying on the premises. For us all, we had one bathroom inside which was allocated to the women and one bathroom outside for the men. Frankly, it was too bloody cold by evening to go out for one’s needs.... many of us just used the inside loo. The water was a trickle and the word “hot water” non existent. It was poor luke warm at best.  We shared the bedrooms downstairs – four to a room. The drivers etc and staff slept on the floor upstairs in the dining room. The conical shapes at each corner are actually cupboard spaces on the inside of the room 

There were two inter actions with the local shepherds. One was this visit to a shepherd’s hut way up a cliff side. The other was a cooking demonstration on how they make pilaf. I avoided the latter as having experienced the local food for two days I knew that it would be a dismal event. 


The visit to the shepherd hut required you to be having nimble feet and ability to climb like a goat........not quite but just about especially the last 15 feet to the hut!!

Getting to the huts was at first by SUV or walking – i preferred the former as i don’t like mountain climbing. Then we forded the small stream and started climbing. There was no alternative. The water was just amazing in colour. The blues changed hue every few metres.  

The ladies answered our personal questions with frankness – our guide doing the translation. The photos speak volumes about their lifestyle.

Afterwards, a shepherd, his wife and young daughter entertained us. He played his violin type instrument and she danced. 

Of the five dances, they did two Indian songs which when you think about it, is quite awesome as this was way up in the Fann mountains and here we are listening to Hindi songs sung originally by yester year Bollywood giants. The whole scene took place by the river bank and we then all contributed a gift for the family.

It was our group leader’s birthday and someone had arranged a cake to be brought all the way from Dushanbe!! We celebrated her birthday in style with cake and wine and then had bonfire later to keep the chill away. 

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