Dholavira, a Harappan city over 2,500 years old, reveals its secrets

 

We had planned to visit this Harappa site for the last five years and eventually managed it in December 2017. 

From Ahmedabad to Dholavira it’s a very long drive so we halted at Wankaner which was a big mistake. Our hotel Royal Oasis was  terrible and we left early next day for Dholavira. 

Reaching there just around 1.30 pm, nearly five hours on the road in the wintry hot sun. 

You hit the White Rann about 15 kms from Dholavira – it’s an awesome stretch of straight road built over what was water. As you drive on this long stretch, there is endless waste land – all white glittering in the heat.

It’s all salt. 

Stare at it and you will hurt your eyes. This is the best place to see the White Rann as it gets no whiter elsewhere.

We saw many tourists stopped by the wayside taking photographs as it’s a unique experience.

As you see the water colour, you realise the different chemicals and salts in its composition. 

The Dholavira Tourism Resort where we stayed gives the appearance of being run by the Gujerat Govt. It is in fact run by the local sarpanch who is an affable man. He offers a full board with guided tour to the Harappan site, Sunset Point evening drive, Fossil Park etc as part of the stay package. There is a reduced rate for single accommodation. HOWEVER, the main issues are the quality of accommodation – we were put up in the Kutch style old round buildings where the stench from the bathroom gutters was AWFUL. 

The rooms are basic, no furniture and bathrooms has tepid trickle of hot water. There is no room heater. There are a series of brand new AC tents which he has built but these were given to groups. The food is basic but plentiful. All vegetarian. Hygiene levels should not be looked at when staying here – the dining room has hay on the floor, less said about the kitchen the better. The staff however is warm hearted and helpful. There is a new resort which has come up before the BSF Camp so perhaps you should try that.

We were allotted a guide who was ignorant. We found that the sarpanch has stopped all accredited guides and brought in his own men!  Luckily we had been recommended Jaymal Makwana by a professional historian and heritage conservationist. We traced him on the site and spent nearly two hours with Jaymalbhai   learning all about Dholavira’s ancient past. So if you are there, do ask for him. He knew every angle having worked there from the very beginning under the guidance of the first archaeologist. 

I have published the actual sign boards from the site as this gives accurate data. 

There is a small museum with interesting information and surprisingly well written explanations in English and Gujerati. Good photographs. Decent lighting enabling you to read the captions!! 

The initial approach to the site appears difficult for senior citizens. The climb to the top means climbing over large stones of uneven surface and height. We found that there is a way around – go to the left side and take a curving sloping route up the site. You may miss a section of the site in the centre but you will see 90% of the site especially as the route down is the same slope avoiding high stepping stones. 

The site is amazing. It is incredible to think of what the culture achieved in those days – it’s a seven tier city in that there are seven distinct stages.  There is a detailed schematic of the city. Houses with various rooms, a bathroom which shows the water flow arrangement, the drainage system in place, the vast area where there was an amphitheatre.  We were told that the actual dig is a small fraction of what is really there underground. 

What was really fascinating was that the tourists come there from far parts of India. We were told that, apart from Gujerat tourists, they are generally from Bangalore, Chennai, Hyderabad, Kolkata and some from Mumbai. We met a group of youngsters who had driven down from Bangalore! I think that’s fantastic to see such a mixed group at such a far off place. Also important was that we saw no sight of any garbage – it was clean of any trash. Visitors did not shout into cell phones or call out to relations!! A remarkable sight in today’s constant Cellphone culture.  

Yes, the main negative was how the powers that be behave. See the photos of the District Magistrate’s car – do you see the number plate. Even that is acceptable. 

                                                  

What was annoying was the blatant disregard of ASI Rules – the two cars were right up to the entrance area of the site which is not allowed to anybody. True representation of Indian political might!! 

We were just in time to catch the sunset at Sunset Point which is about 10 kms from the Harappan site. Awesome view especially with the island at one end and the sun at the other end of the camera frame. A fitting end to a great but tiring day. 

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The famous Wild Ass Sanctuary in the Little Rann of Kutch

We had wanted to visit this sanctuary since last 15 years but managed it only just now!! Its because its not really in Kutch - its off centre for a Kutch trip. So, on our Dholavira trip,  we returned via Sayla which is 90 minutes away from the sanctuary. 

the Forest Office for the tickets is in a bungalow off a lane in Bajana. The rates in Gujerati are pasted on the wall along with the guides list. its mandatory to have a guide as the average person will get lost in the vast expanse of the sanctuary.  Formalities are fast and as we had arrived mid morning rather than early morning, there was no queue and the guide was available. 

The guides must be of varying quality. our chap Mr Malek was dumb. The guides are given  a training of 10-15 days and then let loose with various bird and animal books for identification!! 

our guide's knowledge was BASIC. He did not speak unless asked and I had to tell him he was in the wrong profession if he could not tell us any details of the area or the species. 
He could tell the driver the route to take but he was totally vague on the bird species and on the various fauna and flora. 
So, if you take a guide, check him out first before going into the sanctuary.
We paid Rs 100 officially as the guide fee +a tip of Rs 100, so a total of Rs 200 for 2 hours work. Is this motivation enough for a guide? Its a thought to worry about. 

The first view in the sanctuary is of this vast expanse of parched dried land which has a whitish colour on it - this is the salt which comes up when the water has dried. After progressing a few kms, we came across this water body which had many birds on it. 

i have purposely attached parts of the Govt leaflet so that readers get an idea of the whole sanctuary and see whats available there. 

this is the sort of dried parched soil everywhere 

the first sight of the Wild Ass was this single magnificent specimen. He was alone. More horse than donkey. His brown coat had a beautiful soft colour to it. 

Surprisingly, we came across three groups of wild ass in pairs. 

The herd is highly disciplines and extremely alert. Whilst foraging, they keep an eye open for the unusual and promptly move off if they felt endangered. One herd went into a gallop as two cars were after them, we were lucky as they came close to us and we were sitting quietly in the car. 

This herd decided to go single file and then stopped watching us if we were going to cross their path. We just waited, so the leader eventually just turned around and went back. 

our final sight of the magnificent young birds as they cross to the water

Do go and visit this animal sanctuary as the Wild Ass and bird life are quite prolific. Its a great experience. 





















Text and photographs copyright of the author. No part of this article or photographs maybe transmitted or reproduced by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without written permission. Do contact the author on email -- helpthesun@gmail.com