Dholavira, a Harappan city over 2,500 years old, reveals its secrets

 

We had planned to visit this Harappa site for the last five years and eventually managed it in December 2017. 

From Ahmedabad to Dholavira it’s a very long drive so we halted at Wankaner which was a big mistake. Our hotel Royal Oasis was  terrible and we left early next day for Dholavira. 

Reaching there just around 1.30 pm, nearly five hours on the road in the wintry hot sun. 

You hit the White Rann about 15 kms from Dholavira – it’s an awesome stretch of straight road built over what was water. As you drive on this long stretch, there is endless waste land – all white glittering in the heat.

It’s all salt. 

Stare at it and you will hurt your eyes. This is the best place to see the White Rann as it gets no whiter elsewhere.

We saw many tourists stopped by the wayside taking photographs as it’s a unique experience.

As you see the water colour, you realise the different chemicals and salts in its composition. 

The Dholavira Tourism Resort where we stayed gives the appearance of being run by the Gujerat Govt. It is in fact run by the local sarpanch who is an affable man. He offers a full board with guided tour to the Harappan site, Sunset Point evening drive, Fossil Park etc as part of the stay package. There is a reduced rate for single accommodation. HOWEVER, the main issues are the quality of accommodation – we were put up in the Kutch style old round buildings where the stench from the bathroom gutters was AWFUL. 

The rooms are basic, no furniture and bathrooms has tepid trickle of hot water. There is no room heater. There are a series of brand new AC tents which he has built but these were given to groups. The food is basic but plentiful. All vegetarian. Hygiene levels should not be looked at when staying here – the dining room has hay on the floor, less said about the kitchen the better. The staff however is warm hearted and helpful. There is a new resort which has come up before the BSF Camp so perhaps you should try that.

We were allotted a guide who was ignorant. We found that the sarpanch has stopped all accredited guides and brought in his own men!  Luckily we had been recommended Jaymal Makwana by a professional historian and heritage conservationist. We traced him on the site and spent nearly two hours with Jaymalbhai   learning all about Dholavira’s ancient past. So if you are there, do ask for him. He knew every angle having worked there from the very beginning under the guidance of the first archaeologist. 

I have published the actual sign boards from the site as this gives accurate data. 

There is a small museum with interesting information and surprisingly well written explanations in English and Gujerati. Good photographs. Decent lighting enabling you to read the captions!! 

The initial approach to the site appears difficult for senior citizens. The climb to the top means climbing over large stones of uneven surface and height. We found that there is a way around – go to the left side and take a curving sloping route up the site. You may miss a section of the site in the centre but you will see 90% of the site especially as the route down is the same slope avoiding high stepping stones. 

The site is amazing. It is incredible to think of what the culture achieved in those days – it’s a seven tier city in that there are seven distinct stages.  There is a detailed schematic of the city. Houses with various rooms, a bathroom which shows the water flow arrangement, the drainage system in place, the vast area where there was an amphitheatre.  We were told that the actual dig is a small fraction of what is really there underground. 

What was really fascinating was that the tourists come there from far parts of India. We were told that, apart from Gujerat tourists, they are generally from Bangalore, Chennai, Hyderabad, Kolkata and some from Mumbai. We met a group of youngsters who had driven down from Bangalore! I think that’s fantastic to see such a mixed group at such a far off place. Also important was that we saw no sight of any garbage – it was clean of any trash. Visitors did not shout into cell phones or call out to relations!! A remarkable sight in today’s constant Cellphone culture.  

Yes, the main negative was how the powers that be behave. See the photos of the District Magistrate’s car – do you see the number plate. Even that is acceptable. 

                                                  

What was annoying was the blatant disregard of ASI Rules – the two cars were right up to the entrance area of the site which is not allowed to anybody. True representation of Indian political might!! 

We were just in time to catch the sunset at Sunset Point which is about 10 kms from the Harappan site. Awesome view especially with the island at one end and the sun at the other end of the camera frame. A fitting end to a great but tiring day. 

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