Zaha Hadid's impressive Hyder Ali Centre in Baku.

You just cannot miss this huge extravagant building with its brilliant white rolling curving walls, its massive number of glass windows (the cleaning company has an enviable task) and its length from one end to the other side. its unique and typical of Azerbaijan when they want to make a statement. In this country of boom and bust, prosperity can be at your doorstep overnight and can be snatched away just as quickly, depending upon who is in power !  Invading armies, oppressive ideologies and nosy neighbours have ruled Azerbaijan’s territory around for centuries, each taking its turn to pillage the country of its oil wealth. As in the other Caucasus countries, the brief periods of sovereignty in between are now looked back on as the Golden Period. We went to the main entrance but were forced to go to the side door as there was some major conference taking place. A long detour but we could see the breadth of the building and the grandiose design.  This looks like a keel of a boat!

You go through a long passage and come face to face with this extraordinarily long loom and a carpet in progress. In this foyer, there is a large bronze and granite sculpture and two antique cars – a Citroen and a Packard. One wonders at their relevance. After going through the whole building, every floor, every gallery, we realised that there need not be any linkage at all to the next exhibit. Every gallery had something unique and unusual. Every artist came from across the world. If its good, exhibit it. Independent since 1991, contemporary Azerbaijan is considered with a new sense of permanence. The state has set foundations that cannot be uprooted – most notably via ambitious civic projects that have re-shaped the city’s skyline. Be it the Three Tall Towers, the Carpet Museum, The huge Winged Mall, The Remembrance Arch, the Martyrs Wall… the list of creative structures is growing in Baku. Add to that this unique building …….The Heydar Aliyev Centre in downtown Baku is a signature of Azerbaijan’s self-authored modernity – a symbol of stability and forward momentum.

Designed by the famous late Iraqi-British architect Zaha Hadid, the eye-catching Heydar Aliyev Centre opened in 2012. Its astonishing curved, wave-like shape and innovative use of space have turned it into an icon of modern Azerbaijan. In 2014 the stunning structure, which doesn't have a single straight line, won the London Design Museum's prestigious Design of the Year Award. 

The building aims to be a place that is open to anyone regardless of gender, race and origin and that brings people together united by shared ideas. And besides its extraordinary appearance, it’s also a world-class exhibition and museum complex where you’ll find a wide range of permanent and temporary curations showcasing the best of local and global arts and culture. 

Among the permanent collections, there's a museum exploring the life and legacy of the national leader Heydar Aliyev, a Mini Azerbaijan exhibition displaying miniature versions of the country's key landmarks, and even a very unique collection of classic cars. 

In addition, the Centre also has a stylish cafeteria as well as a state-of-the-art auditorium that hosts international conferences and events. 

What's more, the surrounding area is effectively a large green park where, in warmer months, you can walk, relax and get away from the urban hustle and bustle.

There are many galleries, each with many exhibits, all well captioned in Azerbaijani and English. I have shown photos of the dolls, the clowns, the carpets, the fruit and peppers, the strange metal sculptures. I could not take photographs of the excellent musical instruments section as it was too dark – every wind and string instrument was shown and its origins explained. There were some strange items too which I had never seen before. Our santoor and its maestro Shiv Kumar Sharma featured too.

Seeing the dolls exhibits and their size and features, you realize how much time and effort has gone into making them so well and in such detail. .

This para here refers to an exhibit which could not be photographed.  

The carpet section was awesome. Really beautiful works, so delicately crafted. See my blog on the Carpet Museum where I have featured, in the first half of the blog, some of the carpets from here. Every detail is visible in the carpet – the eyes, the face, the expressions, the stream flowing by, life as it is lived. One can stand there for hours and examine each detail, and not get tired.  

The building is joyful and dynamic; you’re allowed to walk on its perfectly manicured grass lawns and clamber up the sides of its enveloping walls. Best of all, no one will tell you off for taking photos.

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