Lake Sevan - the jewel of Armenia - a bit over rated

We had crossed over from Georgia into Armenia on road and to reach the capital Yerevan, we had to pass Lake Sevan.  This was a highly promoted tourist spot and as it was on the way, I did not object. There was said to be a 70 metre high monastery named Sevanavank – or the Black Monastery named due to it being constructed from black tuff or black basalt rock.

Lake Sevan is said to be the second highest lake in the world after Peru’s Lake Titikaka. My guide said that 28 rivers empty out into Lake Sevan.

The drive to Yerevan was far more interesting than seeing Lake Sevan. We went through the town of Alla Verdi which was known for its copper mines. 

Went through rather bleak countryside with decrepit crumbling houses. Our guide Roza was wonderful, very helpful and a fountain of knowledge. The driver, Arman, a quiet lean guy, spoke little and only later did we learn that he knew English quite well. They were with us for the whole of our Armenia stay. 

On these mountain roads with their numerous S bends, we came across the earliest railway bridge in the country. Still operational. 

Most of the route, we seemed to be going along a river’s path. It was not deep. The shore was rocky and the whole area was deserted. Not a person to be seen.

Roza suddenly pointed out a series of small settlements separated by each other around the mountain terrain. Turned out that some were Russian immigrants and there were some stalls on the road side selling local produce. 

We then came across a long tunnel, said to be 2 kms long which took us a full three minutes to cross. The oncoming traffic was in a separate tunnel. Exiting, I saw it was 80 kms still to Yerevan…time to have a lunch break.

We stopped at this mall…… it was huge. Essentially an eating area for travellers going in either direction, it had a shopping area on one side the foreign exchange counter. The range of food served was amazing. Regrettably I did not recce the whole area so I missed out the pizza and continental food which was at the back. Nonetheless, the portions were large and you could choose whatever you wanted. The cashier sat at one end and only then could you exit the food service area into the seating area. 

My travel agency’s website says, I quote “ Ancient relict Sevan Lake – “The Jewel of Armenia” or the “Geghama Sea” is one of the largest high-mountainous fresh water lakes in the world and the main attraction not only Gekarkunik, but whole Armenia. This nature's wonder is located in the very middle of Armenian highland in a huge mountain bowl framed with picturesque peaks at the height of 1,900 m. The lake's surface area is 940 sq km, the maximum depth - 95 m; maximum length – about 70 km, width - 30-50 km. Sevan is fed by 28 rivers but only one flows out – the Razdan. The biggest river flowing in the lake is the Mayerik.

Artanish peninsula from the north-east and cape Noraduz from the south-west divide the lake into two parts: the bigger and the smaller one which are interconnected by means of a 8-km strait.

The coastline of Sevan Lake is very picturesque with its thick woods, white bare steep rocks, mountain steppes and Alpine meadows, wide bright strip of sea-buckthorn and pine trees, and pebble beaches. This beautiful landscape is added with whipped clouds – they literally touch the snow-capped mountain tops. The territory around Sevan belongs to the National Park.

One can't help admiring these breath taking views. Besides, the mountain air there is always pure and fresh and comparable to sea breeze.

Sevan repeatedly glorified in verses and prose is enchanting indeed. Its transparent waters are capable of changing color: when it is sunny it gets turquoise, in windy weather the water turns grey, at night – silvery.” Unquote

Whoever wrote that was more patriotic and poetic than realistic.

We passed through a long leafy wooded road which was a pleasant sight and then came out into a flat area facing the lake. On the side, on top of a hillock was the monastery. Near the shops, 2 or 3 coaches were parked on the side. I went to the lake front to see it.

The above photo shows the island as it appeared in the olden times.

Basically it was a okay. Nothing fantastic. A huge wine bottle atop a stone wall near the lake front dominated the whole village. Very clear skies and no pollution. The path to the beach was hard packed mud (?) and then nearer the water’s edge, of small pebbles, easy to walk on. A few people were strolling around.

You get a far better view of the lake as you exit and take the road to Yerevan. This road shows off its natural beauty with the hills in the background. The constantly changing clouds gave interesting reflections on the fields below. But onward to our destination- Yerevan which I had lasted visited in 1967 as a student and as part of the  Commonwealth Overland Expedition from London to India. A trip of a lifetime. 

Text and photographs copyright of the author. No part of this article or photographs maybe transmitted or reproduced by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without written permission. Do contact the author on email -- helpthesun@gmail.com