Durres and BERAT - “The City Of One Over One Windows”.

When exploring the “must see” cities in Albania, a country which I had always wanted to see because it had been a “closed country” for nearly 40 years, I planned a trip from north to south. I worked out the main destinations based on my interests. So, from Shkoder to Berat, we did a small diversion by coming along the coast to Durres, a city which has undergone so many name changes that it should win a Guiness Award for Most Names! Read in Wikipedia. 

Durrës is west of Tirana. It is the second most populous city and seat of Durrës County and Durrës Municipality. It is one of Albania's oldest continuously inhabited cities, with roughly 2,500 years of recorded history. It is located on a flat plain along the Albanian Adriatic Sea Coast between the mouths of the Erzen and Ishëm at the south eastern corner of the Adriatic Sea. Durrës' climate is profoundly influenced by a seasonal Mediterranean climate.

In Middle Ages, Durrës was contested between Bulgarians, Venetians, local Albanian noble families, and the Ottoman Empire. The Ottomans ultimately prevailed, ruling more than 400 years from 1501 until 1912. 

Following the Albanian Declaration of Independence, the city served as the capital of the Principality of Albania for a short period of time. Subsequently, it was annexed by the Kingdom of Italy in the interwar period and was occupied by Nazi Germany during World War II. Durrës experienced a strong expansion in its demography and economic activity under the People's Socialist Republic of Albania.

Durrës Castle was built by the Byzantine Emperor Anastasius I 491–518 CE, making the city one of the most fortified on the Adriatic. The walls were devastated by an earthquake in 1273 and were extensively repaired. 

It’s also known for its huge Roman amphitheatre. Nearby is a 9th century church with mosaic covered walls. The Archaeological Museum displays pieces from the Greek, Hellenistic and Roman periods. Broad Durrësi Beach has shallow waters. Nearby is the former summer villa of 20th-century King Zog.

From the Fort, the road leads to the beach. There are some unique aspects of Albania -         1) across the country, all places of tourist interest are beautifully and clearly marked with captions in Shquip (Albanian) and English. 2) there is always a very large square or open space in each city / town where people can gather and in olden times, listen to speeches, 3) the beach areas are very clean and have interesting sculptures interspersed en route.  Here we saw some examples.

From Durres to Berat, it took us 1.15 hours, a distance of 91 kms. It was an incredibly hot day and I slept thru most of the way. Our hotel was on the main square, totally central, and old fashioned rooms but with AC.

Berat, known as the “City of One Over One Windows”, is a historic city located in the heart of the country’s lush landscape. Known for its picturesque beauty and rich cultural heritage, Berat offers visitors a glimpse into Albania’s fascinating past. It’s a 2,400-year-old city, pride of Albanian architecture, wealth of culture and symbol of religious coexistence, has been proven in the UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2008.

The first thing you will notice in Berat is its stunning natural environment. The city is divided into two distinct parts: Kala (old town) and Mangalem (new city). Both are set in the backdrop of the Tomorri mountains and the Osum river winds through the valley, creating a mesmerizing view.

Across the Osum River, lies the Goricë neighborhood, with its houses facing Mangalem. The Arched Bridge of Gorica, built in 1780, is a beautiful architectural monument built to connect Gorica with Mangalem. The ottoman-era white houses in the old town with their many windows create a unique architectural spectacle, which has given Berat its nickname.

We walked across the river to the old town and its considerable length. The old houses are one on top of each other. There is no motorable road except that by the river front. People have to carry everything they need up steep steps, all cobble stones, we tried accessing a lane in different place going up but the route was steep and except for houses, back to back, there was nothing to see. So, we walked all the way back to the town centre! 

Down in the traditionally Muslim Mangalem quarter, there are three grand mosques: the Sultan's Mosque, the Lead Mosque and the Bachelors' Mosque. All are worth a visit and each has its own idiosyncratic design and history. The 16th-century Sultan's Mosque is one of the oldest in Albania. 

The big mosque on the town square is the 16th-century Lead Mosque, so named because of the lead coating its sphere-shaped dome. The 19th-century Bachelors' Mosque is down by the Osumi River. This mosque was built for unmarried shop assistants and junior craftsmen, and is perched between some fine Ottoman-era shopfronts along the river. At the time of research it was closed for renovations.

 

The Helveti teqe (a place of worship for those practising the Bektashi branch of Islam) behind the mosque has a beautiful carved ceiling and was specially designed with acoustic holes to improve the quality of sound during meetings. The Helveti, like the Bektashi, are a dervish order, or brotherhood, of Muslim mystics.

The Kala quarter's biggest church, Church of the Dormition of St Mary (Kisha Fjetja e Shën Mërisë), is the site of the Onufri Museum. Ask at the Onufri Museum if you can see the other churches and tiny chapels in Kala (which are otherwise normally kept locked), including St Theodore, close to the citadel gates; the substantial and picturesque Church of the Holy Trinity, below the upper fortress; and the little chapels of St Mary Blachernae and St Nicholas. Some of the churches date back to the 13th century. Also keep an eye out for the Red Mosque, by the southern Kala walls, which was the first in Berat and dates back to the 15th century.  

Although the fortress is open 24 hours, all visitors have to purchase an entry ticket from the main entrance gate, the ticket booth here is only open between 9am and 6pm.

It is the Mangalemi neighbourhood that gave Berat its nickname of the City of a Thousand Windows. It is best viewed in the evening from the bridge over to Gorica or from Gorica's riverside. It is very atmospheric during the evening call to prayer. However, it is worth walking a short way to the Gorica Bridge that was built in 1780. It is a beautiful stone bridge that crosses over to the Christian Gorica neighbourhood of Berat. 

We had a beautiful drive upto the top of the fort. The view of the area below is awesome.

In spring and summer the fragrance of chamomile is in the air (and underfoot), and wildflowers burst from every gap between the stones, giving the entire place a magical feel.

The highest point is occupied by the Inner Fortress, where ruined stairs lead to a Tolkienesque water reservoir.                                                                                                           Views are spectacular in all directions. It's a steep 10 to 15-minute walk up the hill from the centre of town. For an even more impressive view, continue on right to the far southern end of the complex (the total opposite end from the main entrance) and you'll get to a viewpoint from where you can peer down onto the town far below. In summer, men sell fresh fruit from a stall here.

After the cistern, we drove the other side and saw Konstantin’s huge sculptured face. And a very small church. There were originally 44 churches here but now only 12 remain of which only 4 are operational. The Church of St Mary is right behind Konstantin’s head. We saw the inside the Church of St Nicholas – very small again. An old man is the caretaker. 

Berat has a rich history dating back to ancient times, with influences from the Illyrian, Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman periods. The city is home to many historic sites, including The Castle of Berat, a castle dating back to the 4th century.

Within its walls, you can explore the Byzantine churches of St Mary and St Michael, each featuring stunning frescoes. Furthermore, the Onufri Museum, located in St. Mary’s Cathedral, displays an extraordinary collection of religious art, including works by the renowned iconographer Onufri.

A natural water spout often seen on the roadsides. Safe to drink 

The dark structure in the centre of the above photo is the oldest church in Berat. There is only a goat’s path leading to it.!!

Our visit to Durres and Berat was worth the whole journey and we now proceeded to the really interesting town of Gjirokaster 

One of the better scuptures on Durres' beach 

Text and photographs copyright of the author. No part of this article or photographs maybe transmitted or reproduced by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without written permission. Do contact the author on email -- helpthesun@gmail.com