Or looking after tigers
the Buddhist way!
It’s incredibly hot;
the temperature hovers around 37 degrees. It’s dry. Not a breath of air
anywhere. We are in a stone quarry? The walls have jagged edged, rocky
outcrops. The weather makes one lethargic. But, in fact I am on an adrenaline
high as we are in the Wat Pha Luangta Ba Yannasampanna temple or the Tiger Temple
with five adult tigers and six cubs just a few feet away.
From Kanchanaburi, in
Western Thailand, around 2 hours from Bangkok
by car or bus, famous for its WW II Bridge on the River Kwai, to reach the
temple, you have to travel on the highway for 38 km. A turn off and two to
three km later you will be at the temple. Smugglers still ply this thinly
populated area close to the Myanmar
border. Armed patrols apparently keep watch on rebel armies and ancient
contraband routes.
Eye of the tiger
Believe it or not, but
this trip is a result of watching a television documentary about the Tiger Temple
on the Nat Geo Channel. It had inspired me to travel. So, here I am sitting on
a stone bench while the tigers are sleeping in the heat. The largest is just
six ft away, the others scattered lazily around the quarry floor are between 10
to 20 ft away. The cubs, each one about three ft long, excluding the tail, are
near a rock at the rear of the quarry.
 |
| Abbott with Chief Monk who named the temple |
Abbot Pra Acham Phusit
Khantidharo founder of the sanctuary & temple, sits next to the two largest
tigers, constantly on guard, as tigers have mercurial temperaments especially
when the weather notches up a degree or two.
Abbot Phusit has documented the
personalities of all the tigers and has given them descriptors such as
"likes to be a star and loves showing off" and "pretends to be
tame and gentle but will bite".
 |
| Waiting area before meeting the tiger |
He ensures that the visitors, who number
around 10 to 15 on each of my three visits, follow instructions given by the
staff, in order to keep both man and beast safe.
 |
| Count the tigers around me!! |
It’s now my turn to sit
with the tigers. A guide rope separates the tigers from the tourists. As there
is no water here, concrete bowls filled with water are situated at regular
intervals. They also use a hosepipe to spray the ground so that the tigers
remain cool. The keeper holds my right wrist. I am led to Storm or
Phayu, born in June 1999, “a clever and playful tiger who likes to show
off; loathes bright colours and perfume” [tourists are warned against wearing
red outfits or perfume]. Next to him is Saifa or Lightning, he is
lying by Abbot Phusit's side. As per the guidebook, he is “moody, nervy and
unpredictable; he enjoys being indulged and talked to gently; father of three
cubs born at the monastery”. To avoid upsetting the tigers, each visit is kept
short and only one photo-op by the large tiger upfront and one at the rock is
allowed. But I manage to convince Abbot Phusit to let me take a few more
pictures. The keeper handling my camera has been requested to click as many
photos as possible.
As is the norm, I am
taken to the tiger from the rear and not head-on and asked to sit behind it. No
words, only sign language. My heart is pounding away. The other tourists are
watching, with unbelieving eyes and thinking of their turn. Each one of us
comes back in a daze. We had never thought of a day like this one. After the
photo op, the keeper holds my wrist once more and leads me to the rock where
the five cubs and the large tiger are. As I sit with them, I think of how such
an opportunity does not exist anywhere else and how we in India have more
than our fair share of tigers, but we fail to look after them.
 |
| Walking with Chomnapha |
At five pm, the tigers
go back in their cages. We are herded to one side. The path is cleared for them
to walk. The cubs are carried first, one at a time, and then the adults are
leashed and led away. I get lucky once more as Abbot Phusit asks us to walk
behind the tiger Chomnapha or Great Sky. As I walk behind the
tiger, he asks me to walk along side it, as if I was walking a big dog. Of
course, I don’t miss out on the photo-op!
Close encounter
It was during my third
trip to the tiger quarry that I had a close encounter with a big cat. Abbot
Phusit must have been amazed that I had visited more than once, therefore he
asked the keeper to provide me with a closer experience with the biggest cat. tiger
 |
| Saifa's head on my lap |
The keeper led me there as earlier and asked me to sit cross-legged; He then took
Storm’s head and gently manoeuvred it on my lap.
He put my hand on the tiger’s
body and asked me to smile for the camera! I could scarcely breathe
Abbot
Phusit wanted me to pose with my hat on the tiger’s body and my elbow near his
mouth. I froze when I was asked to do this, those teeth could crush my arm like
a bread stick! But, faith is an amazing thing. I did as asked and the tiger lay
quietly. A 275 kg, 6-year-old tiger was lying with his head on my lap. I could
only remember the experience later at that point of time I was thinking of the
tiger’s teeth a few inches from my elbow and the consequences if he got upset
!!. But what a feeling it was! I can frankly say that I know of nobody who has
had a tiger sleep in his or her lap.
Abbot Phusit insists
all 14 tigers living at the temple have adopted peaceful Buddhist ways. Strange
but true. Walking fully grown tigers on a leash is all part of a day's work for
this group of dedicated Buddhist monks who protect endangered animals by
offering them a home within the walls of their temple. "We are a big
family here and we live together, not just with the tigers but many other
animals. It is the power of dhamma, which nurtures the world. Wherever dhamma
exists, there is serenity. It provides peacefulness to both animals and
humans," said Abbot Phusit, sitting cross-legged, surrounded by
tigers. The tigers live among monkeys,
horses, deer, peacocks, geese and wild boar. The sight of the monks playing
with tigers as if they were ordinary domestic animals invariably stuns
visitors.
 |
| The Abbott and Cloud. |
Sitting
with his tigers, Abbot Phusit agrees that the temple grounds are not an ideal
home for his tigers. "We have started building an area of about 30 Rai (12
acres) in which they can roam, and eventually we want to send them back to the
forest”. Phusit said many of the temple tigers were wounded and were brought
from the nearby Myanmar
border. "Once we have built the Tiger Island enclosure, we can keep 30
tigers, but we can only build it as fast as we raise funds. Yes, I worry."
he said.
Note - this article was written
in Sept 2005. To my surprise, in a two year span, it made nearly 60 people
known to me (friends and their family members) visit the Temple. At the time
of my visit, it was a non commercial operation and one donated what you could
afford. Now, I am told it’s been commercialised and you pay hefty fees. Still
its worth the visit. I do not know the current status of Ploy - see below.
 |
| Carry me home! |
Fact
File as on 2005.
Country: Thailand
Geography: Southeast Asia
Area: 513,115
sq. km
Capital: Bangkok
Currency: Thai Baht. 1 Baht is
100 Satang ( Rs 118 = B 100 )
Current
conversion rates apply.
Time zone: +7 hours
GMT
Language: Thai. English is not widely understood.
Climate: Mainly tropical
How to get there
Getting
to Kanchanaburi is easy as it’s close to Bangkok which is easily accessible by
air from any major Indian city . Kanchanaburi has no airport. It is located where
two tributaries, the Kwai Noi and Kwai Yai (which have their source in the Ta
Now Sri Range) meet and form the Mae Klong River running through the
city.
Road: Kanchanaburi is about 130 km west of
Bangkok (a good road, just over two hours by bus or car). Take the A/C or
non-A/C bus from the Sai Dai or Southern bus Terminal. Bus departures are
punctual and are every 30 minutes. Tickets cost BT 80 for an A/C bus; you get
cold water and a cold towel free. The terminus has food / snack shops and good
porters to help you. Be careful of your belongings as pickpockets abound.
Rail: As the
railway link between Bangkok and Kanchanaburi is only a local line, this is a
journey to be undertaken only by the VERY brave! From Thonburi station Bangkok,
only 3rd class trains run along this route and the journey takes a staggering
FIVE HOURS! Be ready for compartments with no windows, no fan, wooden seats and
lots of livestock.
Where to stay
Kanchanaburi has an impressive selection of hotels and
resorts, many of which are along the famous River Kwai. Opportunities abound for rustic
living aboard rafts on dazzling rivers and reservoirs, and provide the focal
point for memorable holidays for nature lovers who delight in natural
surroundings and pleasures without sacrificing basic comforts. However,
the cost [from USD 45 to USD 200] depends upon the season and the facilities
available. There are many guesthouses also at very reasonable rates ranging
from USD 10 to USD 25 per night inclusive of breakfast. I stayed at the Ploy River Kwai at A. Muang. Thamakham St. It is very central to all the
major sights [the Bridge, War Museum and cemetery etc]. Very large well
furnished A/C rooms, good food, a Thai style decor and really warm-hearted
owners. The room had a huge glass window facing a private garden for my room and a bathroom which was al-fresco -- open to the sky from the top but gave total privacy (the first of future such experience of loos open to the elements).
Must-see
Kanchanaburi unfolds in arresting scenic beauty.
It has a landscape characterised by several waterfalls, caves once inhabited by
the Neolithic man, national parks and tranquil riverside and reservoir
settings. But, the greenery and waterfalls depends upon the rains.
Visitors can go within town by bus or bicycle o.r
motorcycle - which can be hired at guesthouses and travel agents. The boat
trips to some riverside attractions are serviced at the River Kwai Bridge Pier
and Wat Chaichumpon Pier. Raft trips along Kwae Noi or Kwae Yai River leave
from the famous bridge or the waterfront Song Kwae Road area. You can book for
return journey or overnight stay. Basically, the sights
worth seeing can be divided into places within the city and outside in the
surrounding areas.
Places to see in the city:
- River Kwai Bridge - this
famous bridge is four km north from downtown, crossing the River Kwai Yai.
It was brought from Java by the Japanese Army and was assembled at the
River Kwai by the prisoners. Bombed several times in 1945, it was rebuilt
after the war. The curved spans of the bridge are the original sections.
An estimated 16,000 war prisoners and 49,000 forcibly recruited labourers
died during the construction of the bridge and the Death Railway that
leads to Burma.
- WW 2 Museum: Interestingly
conceived originally but unimaginatively displayed and the photos are now
fading away. The
lower floor displays items from Burma and the upper floors exhibit artefacts
from the Ayuthaya period through to modern times with many examples of
ceramics. The top levels hold portraits from Thai history and royalty. The
smaller building houses WW2 relics of artefacts & photos.
- JEATH located in the precincts of
Wat Chaichumpon, it has been constructed in the form of an Allied POW
camp. The name JEATH is derived from Japan, England, America, Australia,
Thailand and Holland. The thatched detention hut with cramped, elevated
bamboo bunks contains photographic, pictorial and physical memorabilia
dating from the Second World War. Several POW’s who survived appalling
conditions have donated items to add to the museum's authenticity. I felt
there was a lot of duplication between the War Museum by the Bridge and
this place. Strongly recommend a miss as its far and not worth the visit.
- Floating Nun at Wat Tham Mongkon Thong. The long steep steps leading to the
cave above the wat, where the view is stunning, is worth the climb, more
so than the floating nun. The cave temple of the Golden Dragon is renowned
in more recent times due to the practice of a nun who floats on the waters of a pool
while meditating, something she has since passed onto younger generations.
Is it due to her body fat, her voluminous clothes or salt content in the
water? Nobody knows except her: she happily charges B10 per person per
demo, which is only done if there are enough tourists willing to pay !!
- Kwai War Cemetery, which is on main
road: seen one, you have seen all the others. On Saeng Chuto Road, opposite
the Railway Station, this immaculately maintained cemetery contains the
remains of 6,982 allied prisoners-of-war who perished during the
construction of the 'Death Railway'. An estimated 16,000 Allied
prisoners-of-war, and 49,000 labourers died.
Places to see outside the city:
Essentially, there are two major road routes for exploring conveniently
accessible tourist attractions in provincial Kanchanaburi. The more western Route 323 largely
parallels the Kwai Noi river to the Khao Laem Dam reservoir (153 km from the
provincial capital). Route 3199
follows the Kwai Yai River to Sri Nagarind Dam (69 km from the provincial
capital)
1.
Wat Pha Luang Ta Bua - Tiger Temple: Although
the tigers appear tame, let's not forget these are naturally wild animals.
Sudden movements and too many camera flashes at one time can spook them. But
you may get to have a tiger in your lap!
2.
Safari Park is a man-made habitat for several
African & Asian animals - lions, tigers, giraffes, zebras and bears. The
landscaping is beautifully designed and offers great insights into the habits
of the animals. The whole area around the park is highlighted by some
beautifully decorated pavilions, which house gift shops, cafes and
restaurants. You can tour around the
park in your own car but the best way to see the whole grounds is to take one
of the park's own buses.
3.
Huai Khamin waterfall: Arguably the most spectacular
waterfall in Thailand! Famous but only in season when
it’s in full flow. Although
only reachable by four-wheeled drive or boat from Sri Nakarin Dam, it's certainly worth the extra
effort! The water tumbles into Sri Nakarin Lake and have deep pools, excellent
for swimming
4.
The Death Railway trip to Namtok. Sections of the old route are still in use
today. Most notably the section from The Bridge up to Namtok station at Sai Yok
National park, snaking
its way through scenic, thrilling natural terrain, hugging the mountain side at
a slight height over the raging river below. The train leaves the small and
very clean Kanchanaburi Station at 10.30 am. Lots of stations en route but most
have a small or no platform, with a concrete bench covered by a strip of
aluminium roofing. In the train, sit on the left side as one goes towards
Namtok so that you can see the river. The train is old; bogies are older, very
much like the Indian Railways 15 years ago. Sellers of soft drinks and food
walk around. The train journey itself
costs B100 for foreigners or B300 if you want to sit in the special carriage
with padded seats, where you get free a cold drink and a pastry as an add-on.
Sometimes, they requisition the standard coach and charge B200 for the
privilege of a wooden seat!! Instead, better than sitting with other strangers
who know as little about the country as yourself, go sit in the guard
compartment with nice padded seats, friendly guards and they will even help you
with your sight seeing, pointing out special views along the route. Thais are a
very friendly people.
5.
Hellfire Pass: The most famous section further
north towards Burma is "Hellfire Pass", pounded out through solid
rock. Workers would lower themselves from the top of the cliff, bore a hole,
plant a charge of dynamite, light the fuse and scurry up the rope. If they
didn't get far enough away, they didn't stand a chance. The pass has now mostly been reclaimed by
the jungle. All along the route from Kanchanaburi are sections and memorials
dedicated to the construction of the railway.
6.
Sai Yok National Park and its waterfall at the end of the "Death Railway" line at Nam Tok station. The
countryside and the landscape are among one of the most beautiful places in the
province and in the shade of the trees, temperatures are comfortable!. Lots of rafts with staying accommodation available as well as land
guesthouse from the park. Very beautiful place to stay. Lots of greenery and
water, even though in April it was at low levels.
7.
Prasat Muang Sing Historical Park 43 km from town, this ancient site is located on a steep bank of
the Kwai Noi River when it becomes fast flowing. The 800-year-old city ruins
are of considerable archaeological interest and the principal structure, the
Khmer Prasat Muang Sing (Tower of the City of Lions) is believed to be the
westernmost Khmer shrine of the Angkor Wat empire; a distance of about 700 km
to the east. Skeletal remains dating back some 2,000 years have been unearthed
and a wide range of artefacts, including temple carvings, religious items,
implements and pottery shards indicate the once-thriving city must have been
inhabited from approximately the 12th to 14th centuries.
8.
The Lawa Cave 75 km from
town, this largest cave in the area has stalactites and stalagmites in several
chambers. Visitors may take boats from the Kwai Noi river Pak Saeng Pier, at
Tambon Tha Sao (southwest of Nam Tok Railway Station and Sai Yok Noi Waterfall)
to explore this cave, and travel afterwards upstream to the riverine Sai Yok
Yai Waterfall, 104 km from town
9.
Three Pagoda Pass: This
small settlement, 241 km from Kanchanaburi, marks the rugged Thai-Myanmar
border and is the site of a small thriving border market. Visitors are allowed
to enter the neighbouring Burmese settlement between 6.00 am and 6.00 pm. The
three miniature pagodas are memorials to what was the traditional invasion
route favoured by Burmese soldiers during the Ayuthaya period (1350-1767).
10. Bo Phloi Some 40 km from Kanchanaburi
and just off Route 3086, this area is famed for locally mined blue sapphires
and semi-precious materials such as onyx. A jewellery Handicraft Centre enables
visitors to see how these materials are made into finished jewellery creations
11. Erawan National Park 65 km from
Kanchanaburi, this 550-square-km national park is the site of the 7-tiered
Erawan Waterfall, widely regarded as being one of Thailand's loveliest
cascades. A mountainside forest setting includes dense bamboo groves, which
support numerous bird species. There are scores of pools down stream where one
can take a plunge in the refreshing spring water. The falls season is between
September and December and it is best to visit the park on weekdays to avoid
holiday crowds. The park's other major attraction is the spectacular Pra That
Cave, which contains monumental stalagmites. Bungalow accommodation and camping
facilities are available.
What to buy
In Thailand, you get excellent quality
of handicrafts made from Silver, Laquerware, handmade Silk and Paper. Additionally,
you get jewellery and artefacts made by various tribal groups who abound in
each of the Thai provinces or States. The silver jewellery is often very
similar to some traditional Indian designs. There are handicraft emporia
dedicated to either an item or a range of items in each city. Prices need to be
negotiated, as the concept of a fixed rate does not exist in Thailand. Thais
would not be happy unless you bargained with them !!!
Additional information
For current information and prices as well as
information on Thai festivals, contact the highly efficient Thai Tourism
Authority [TAT] at Kanchanaburi. Tel. (034) 511200. Very well organised and
qualified young caring staff who give you impartial information depending upon
your needs / budget.
For more information:
Tourist
Information - 034 511200, 034 512500
Kanchanaburi Bus Terminal - 034 511182
Kanchanaburi Railway Station - 034 511285
Tourist Police - 034 512795, 034 512668, "1155
Text and photographs copyright of the author. No part of this article or photographs maybe transmitted or reproduced by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without written permission. Do contact the author on email -- helpthesun@gmail.com
