Tuesday 23 May 2017

Monks at work and play - in Laos

Laos, like any other far eastern country, has many Buddhist monks as Buddhism is the official religion even though here, it’s a communist country – remember the Pathet Lao and the war a few decades ago??  The communism is not blatantly visible and basically, it’s like Vietnam, a very pleasant country which still retains its French influence – street names are in French and Lao.

Buddhism is part of the culture and most males will undergo a few months or years as a monk – part religion, part self discipline and partly, especially for the poor, a way for the child to be educated and to be well looked after by the monastery.

We were very fortunate as we saw two unique events – a building coming up from scratch in Wat Xien Thuang and a Buddha Washing ceremony at Wat Mai.
We went in to the courtyard which had a large tent; and were enchanted seeing a religious ceremony in full flow. The crowds were pouring in, each family or couple, in their best clothes, with a silver coloured bowl containing water and a few frangipani or champa flowers in it. They queued up on two sides on a platform up a few steps. From that height, they poured their bowl of water into a golden coloured “pipe” which was carved with dragon shapes. This water rolled down onto a glass encased statue of the Buddha – thus washing him. Priests chanted payers on the side. 


I don’t know the meaning of this ceremony but they came out feeling fulfilled and happy. time – what a different feeling. It was totally empty. The whole place had been totally cleaned up. It seems this ceremony is held on three days only per year.   

We saw the inside of the Wat with its beautiful Buddha statue and yet again a large golden mural depicting scenes from life.



This was the first temple we visited on our morning sightseeing tour. The main building has an impressive gold frontage. Inside there is a large carriage type structure used so I am told to carry funeral urns of Lao royalty. At the back there are Buddha images. 






We were very lucky as we saw the monks constructing a building right in the central courtyard. They had already got a skeletal metal frame fitted. When we reached they were in the process of raising the triangular roof which was worth seeing in itself. They took nearly an hour as it had to be carefully lifted and placed in its slot. Of course Health and Safety as defined in Europe plays no part here. 




The monks clambered up and down without helmets or rigging. There were monks painting parts of the golden framework. Others helping elsewhere. Teamwork at its best. 


At the back of the second building is the Tree of Life which I felt was okay. Nothing great. I rather liked the collage or mural made of various inlaid stones – showing aspects of life. A similar scene on a much grander scale is in the national museum ceiling. 
It’s an interesting Wat and well worth seeing


























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Kuang Si Waterfalls - the 14 stage falls are unbelieveably beautiful


The Kuang Si waterfalls are the largest waterfall in Luang Prabang area. Most articles talk about 3 or 4 tiers but frankly I saw at least 14 levels in the falls, from top down. The drop is said to be between 50 – 60 metres into a spectacular azure or turquoise blue pool. It flows downstream into five pools with cascades.  

The route to the Falls is rather long and on a long winding road thru pretty countryside. When one arrives, after paying the entrance ticket, you walk on the tarred road straight up an incline and not on the small path on the right side.
After 10 minute stroll, you come up to the area where people are picnicking. Suddenly you see the Falls. As you go nearer, you find that actually there is not one waterfall but around 14 separate waterfalls dropping from a great height creating new falls as they progress downwards. Awesome does not describe it fully! 



It's an amazing sight. One walks on the bridge and just meditates on what nature has created. There are many people taking photographs of the falls. On the far side there is a path but we did not go up as we were not sure where it was leading. On the right side, there are a series of pools where you can swim. The water is icy cold but still many people especially Europeans were swimming.

The watercolour is an amazing light cerulean blue in colour. This is due to the water flowing over many limestone rocks. ...from the spring to the falls to the travertine cascades. Limestone particles have high levels of calcium carbonate which reflect light making the water appear a stunning turquoise blue colour.  Alongside path there are small boards explaining the beauty of this whole area. You can go on a trail right to the very top where you see the stream feeding into the falls.

The weather at Kuang Si is noticeably cooler than in town. You can picnic here for a few hours or the whole day as there are changing rooms, tables and benches and other facilities. 

The bear sanctuary is not really worth seeing but you cannot avoid it as the path to the exit goes to the bear sanctuary and then out. We saw just 3-4 bears. 
These Falls are definitely worth a visit if you are in the city. Do not miss the falls if you are in Luang Prabang. 






Text and photographs copyright of the author. No part of this article or photographs maybe transmitted or reproduced by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without written permission. Do contact the author on email -- helpthesun@gmail.com