Sasan Gir - Royalty of a different kind!

Leaving Ahmedabad at 8.30 am we reached Sasan Gir in the afternoon at 3.15pm. A distance of just over 425 kms excellent roads throughout via Limdi, Rajkot, Gondal, Junagadh, Gir. The entry into Sasan town was like entering any village... Small and dusty. Along the way one saw many lodges and new hotels. Our Lion Safari Lodge was actually down a very narrow rut carved lane with small huts alongside. Past a small cemetery, it suddenly opened out into a wider road. The tented camp was across a bund type road of a small stream.

Lion Safari Camp. 4 star luxury. Superb service

Our friends

The hot shower area

what more could I want? 

the most important room

When we had booked the tented camp, my imagination ran riot as to what it would be like.   Frankly, my inner thought was it would be an actual tent but with cots. it turned out to be luxurious as he photos show

There were 22 tents beautifully laid out across well maintained lawns in a 'w'  shape. Each tent had a large room fully equipped with all mod cons. The bathroom had a geyser and sink and flush toilet. Very comfortable. We had excellent meals, with a well laid out buffet. Ample choice for veggies and a non veg item too. Fish was available and the chef did his best for us. The staff, under their young but efficient Manager Ajay Kumar Behera, is extremely polite, helpful and committed to serving guests. Mr Behera runs a tight ship, everything well organised. Its a great place to stay, except guests need to realize that tents are made of fabric and not brick and mortar - my fellow Gujjus tended to forget that especially in the mornings when at 5.00 am they were all gathering each other raucously for the early safari and we were trying to sleep.

As we had reached mid afternoon, after a cuppa tea, we decided to go birding with our guide Bachu Singh, a very experienced 'bird man'; we had been given his reference by the BNHS, Mumbai. (Contact Bachchu Singh, Naturalist- Cell # +91 85029 72499 or
bs.birdwatching@yahoo.com). 
We spent nearly two hours being introduced to various types of birds. I had never seen so many species and especially understanding their peculiarities and needs was a real education. Bachu Singh has a keen eye and knew bird calls galore. If it wasn't for him, we would not have appreciated the beauty of the jungle. Despite a lack of binos, we had a good time learning.

View right by the Lion Safari camp

We crossed the bund, walked across the boundary of the river bank and saw many species, but no crocodiles who are also said to inhabit this area.

an egret cooling its feet

When on such a trip, whentime is restricted, my theory is to finish the objective asap and then have free time. Never keep to the end as something may come up and one will miss out on the original objective. So we planned the morning and evening safaris in such a way that if we were really happy with the lion sighting, we would avoid the morning safari: essentially as it was at an unearthly hour!

The rules clearly laid out ! 

9.30 – 11.45 Devaliya Camp safari next day. This is a safari within a closed enclosure and its taken by bus. We all assembled at the safari main gate and took a bus into the enclosure. Lots of families, all unaware of the need for silence in a safari camp! Sitting upfront was helpful as when we came to the lions, the driver helped me by ensuring we stayed those few extra minutes for me to take some photos. There were many deer, especially does, in the undergrowth. The land was harsh. Dusty and with limited green cover, more like bushes which were dying due to lack of water.

the permits issued to us

the land is dry and dusty. Little greenery

Just there whilst taking a turn we saw a large cage. Inside two leopards were kept. One pacing  silently alongside the fencing, up and down, and the other lying down. The youngsters in the bus suddenly came alive and called out to each other to take photos. Further down we saw our first view of the Big Cat! 

                                                    Hidden by brush, the bus waited some 50 ft away whilst we all had photo ops. The lion majestically got up, walked around and went to his brother who was lying some feet away. The drivers are under instruction not to disturb the lions so not only did we not wait too long but we were quite far away.

There was another lion a bit far away who was just not interested in us. He lay fast asleep. Lions spend most of their rime sleeping, I am told that they hunt for four hours or so and then sleep.

Disturb me not ! 

The evening safari was a disaster for us. We had chosen what everyone said was the best route. The jeep was with a few others and whilst we went up and down the trails, we did not see a single lion.

We saw deer, and many birds. No lions. At the very end, near the gates, the jeeps stopped near a clearing. There was a lion asleep.

Ah, to be a lion and laze all day! 

Who stole my paw prints? 

 The Safari supervisor in his jeep was regulating the visitor jeeps. We had hardly arrived and whilst I was focussing my camera, he instructed us to move on. I was furious as the driver immediately moved. I had just this one photo above. My friends had just about risen from their seats to have a look. If the driver had stopped at my instructions to wait, he and the guide would have been penalised by the authorities, no tourist for 15 days. This effectively cuts off their livelihood. So, they have to obey promptly.

Yes, those were mine!!

The early morning safari was an experience. The nights were cold in late January. Nearly  2 degrees. Early morning wake up at 4.30 am for departure at 5.30 am was tortuous. Wrapped up in windcheaters and caps, our group got a jeep to the Safari camp office. We collected our tickets and changed jeeps and ensured we got a good guide. This is critical as the team of guide and driver are the key to your successful safari. I was told that it’s better to acknowledge their work in advance rather than afterwards so they are motivated. The park gates open at 6 am. There are a limited number of routes. So we chose route 7, hoping we would get better sighting.

The reflectors of the jeep light up our view at 5.45am! 

Waiting is par for the course. Patience is critical.

It was cold and dark. In our route, we were the only ones. Others went different routes. This is a blessing as if we saw lions, we would not have a crowd of jeeps. It was cold. Luckily our jeep had a top half cover which gave me protection from the bitterly cold wind. My friends sat in the uncovered half and as they were hardy Brits, I had no qualms or guilt in asking them to sit there. As after all, if we saw lions, they were in direct lion of sight. I would have to stand to see! 



The safari timing was 6 to 9 am. It was pitch dark. One could not see anything. Except for the reflection from the dipped head lights, we were in darkness. As light gradually dawned, birds and monkeys could be heard. It was an awesome feeling being in thick jungle and not being able to see anything. Frankly I don't know why they start safaris so early as you can’t see anything!

Our friend waiting patiently to move on! 

At 7 am, having just undertaken a slow round of part of the circuit, we stopped with some other jeeps for a pit stop. The drivers exchanged notes and due to the beneficence of cell phones, tried getting info on lion sightings. We waited and waited in the jeep, nearly 45 minutes.  

We were 30 feet behind the forester and see how close he is to the lion!

Then onwards alone again. Suddenly the driver got thru to someone who asked him to rush if he wanted to see a lion. Turned out that our driver knew a ranger who was tracking a lion. The distance must have been quite a few kilometres as it took us sometime to reach the ranger. The rules are strict. There are speed limits. Our Schumacher told us to hold on. My friends bent low to avoid the overhead branches as we sped fast over bumps and rutted tracks.

Then, in front, we see a ranger leading his motorbike. Not driving it, just leading it. Right up front of him, was a male lion walking on the road. The distance between them was hardly 50 feet. We were about 30 feet behind the ranger in total silence. This silent procession continued for nearly 3/4 kilometre.

That was my photo up there at the top. did you like my scars? 

The path curved and we followed solemnly. Then the lion stopped, deciding to move into the brush. A raised hand and we stopped. Suddenly from the opposite side a jeep approached. The ranger stopped them. The lion moved into the brush, followed by the ranger. We waited hoping that we would see the lion. After a few minutes, whilst the lion crossed the brush parallel to us, the ranger indicated we should proceed towards him. Off road. Both jeeps slowly did so. This was our moment of glory. For a full five minutes, whilst the lion walked and then sat and stretched, we photographed him and watched him. He was hardly 40 ft away. It was magical as if he and the ranger understood each other. Why else would he have allowed the ranger to follow him, never a turn or look back, for nearly one km. When the ranger signalled us to leave, we left immediately as we did not want to upset the lion or the ranger for their graciousness.

Story of the lion that escaped!!

The way back was in silence. Each if us reflecting on this moment. We came across some crocodiles in the small lake. At the office where we changed jeeps, we found that the other groups had no luck, no sightings at all. We had been really lucky, especially as our permit was far more expensive than for locals, due to my foreign friends requiring to pay the extra fee. Considering that there is an excess of lions, where are they? Why does the tourist not see them? It shows that the jungle cover is really good. The lions walk within their own areas, in the jungle, we can’t see them. Our driver said that he had heard about a lion which had been seen in a village, been caught and had escaped just that morning! See the article. 

So, Gir was successful despite the early misfortune of not seeing any lions in the first round! 

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