Lao Royalty's spiritual rejuvenation temple - Wat Long Khoun

I was walking around enjoying my last day in Luang Prabang and suddenly I came across the ferry crossing and saw a small village across.  The ferry was frequent and so I decided impromptu to take it across the river. It was loaded with 2 or 3 cars and many passengers – essentially women and children. Many bikes. 

As we took off at this end, the ferry on the other side was loading and as we reached the opposite side at 5 PM, that ferry left. The crossing was quite peaceful and we actually crossed lower down the river, not right across. There was a family having a picnic by the river side, right next to the ferry point – strange place to sit and eat but then in Laos, a relaxed laid back country, strange things do happen. I had no idea what was in store for me. I walked up the steep incline and saw a tuktuk – always grab one if you are not sure what to do and where you want to go – at least you have transport !! Mr Choi, its driver, said he would take me to the nearest temple which was some distance away. As far as I was concerned, it was a mobile version of my usual walkabout – see as much as possible in an hour or so. 

The houses are small, single room structures in that there is the living room up front and near the door which is sometimes on the road itself, occasionally by the pavement. I think it must be at least a three km drive before we reached the forest area. Wat Long Khun is off the main tourist trail and offers a quiet and peaceful temple experience. 

We went up a dirt road and then turned right passing through a few small bans or villages. Lao eat early - it was interesting seeing families gather together having dinner at this early hour. They all sat in the open, each in its compound. The kitchen is often close by so it’s easy to stretch and get the pans. 

We suddenly saw the temple located in the village of Xiang Men – actually we bumpily drove across the muddy green and came to the temple. It is small but unique in its historical value. The wat is attractively sited on a 1.5 hectare (3.7 acre) flat area at the top of a long stairway leading from the river's edge on the right bank of the Mekong. Resting close to the river bank, it has long had significant historical value, despite its small sim (ordination hall). Wat Long Khun was in fact a very important temple.                                                                                                                              



   





It is fondly known as “Monastery for the Happy” as it once served as the sanctuary for the spiritual rejuvenation of a new king. Here he would meditate and be spiritually cleansed for three days. All this prior to his coronation at Wat Xieng Thong. 

This War is typical of 18^th C architecture in this area. It has two single level sections and the front part was extended by the then king in 1937. It has gilded columns and intricate wood carvings. The older part contains what are known as Jataka murals. Relating Buddha’s many lives. They feature local myths and legends especially on the importance of giving.

The Wat lies directly opp to Wat Xieng Thong across the river. Restoration work at Wat Long was carried out the Lao and the French and great efforts have been made to ensure authenticity.  Under the portico and on the facade of the sim, one unexpectedly finds two historic and large bearded Chinese guardians flanking the main entry. The porch is supported by eight elegant gold and black columns. Inside the temple has deities and a variety of statues like mythical creatures, peacocks, dharna wheels etc. 

 

The temple complex also includes other interesting structures.  There are six living quarters for monks, designed in traditional wooden styles and are raised on customary pilings.  There is also a long windowless structure where past kings and current monks go for meditation.

Walking round it near the river bank, we saw a large statue of a Buddha under a green Naga as an umbrella for Him.  Really peaceful and impressive being here. 

On the road back, we zoomed past a family and friends group having an early evening party and Buddhist monks on their way back home. The tuktuk reached the ferry point just in time for me to reach the ferry as it was about to depart. The evening sunset, my last in LP, was amazing .... 

Across the river bank, we saw the landmark of the large number of steps so this meant that we had actually traversed a considerable area facing the museum going thru up to the steps.  This temple may not be famous, may not be large but it has an unusual serenity to it. Definitely don’t miss. It’s far too long to walk so take the tuk tuk.

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