Gjirokaster - The Magic of a stone city in southern Albania

Gjirokaster is my favourite city in Albania. It has a unique ambience and structure. It was Day 4 of my car tour – we drove up from Berat. Located in southern Albania, Gjirokastra lies on the steep slopes of the Drino River valley, in a dominant position with a landscape rich in history. This is the “city of a thousand staircases”, which includes hundreds of houses – Ottoman-type towers with stone roofs, wooden balconies and stone walls. With a magnificent castle on a steep hill, Gjirokastra is a magical city. July 2005, it became a UNESCO’s world heritage site. 

We were driving up towards the city, mainly through green hilly countryside. It was a cloudy day and the weather forecast for the next three days was around 10 degs at night. Daytime was around 15 degs. The streets are all narrow and curving continuously and you lose track of the route. Suddenly, we were at our hotel: its a a very small property; more like a large apartment with just five basic en-suite rooms.                                                                                                           

After settling in, we decided to walk to the town. It’s a long meandering downhill stroll, through narrow lanes and high stone walls of local houses. Occasionally, you see a garden or the view of the hills.

The city’s name first appears in the historical record in the mid 1300’s as Argyrocastron, medieval Greek for the ‘silver castle,’ but the settlement has been around for much longer. Archaeological evidence says this area has been occupied since 2,000 BCE ! The castle has stood watch over the valley below ever since the 6^th – 12^th C but you need to read my blog on the Fort / Castle for more interesting details and photos.

The archaeological park of Antigone is located near the village of Saraqinisht, east of Kumanovo. This park is 14 km away from Gjirokastër and was established by King Pyrrhus of Epirus in 295 BC. In the Antigone archaeological park are many attractions  mosaic pillars, promenade, an antique scale etc.

In the village of Labova e Kryqit, near the small town of Libohova, see the oldest and most beautiful Byzantine church in Albania, dedicated to Saint Mary. The church was built in a similar style to the Church of St. Sophia in Istanbul and remains one of the most special attractions of the city of Gjirokastër.

You can also visit the ancient Theatre of Hadrianapolis, dating back to the 2nd century BC, which is located near the village of Sofratik, about 14 km away from Gjirokastër, along the Highway.

As you come down the lane, you suddenly see a large square which is awesomely placed. Facing straight ahead of you is an incredible view of the mountain range. Being evening time, the sun’s rays are reflecting of the hills through the misty clouds. It’s a grand view which you rarely get to see – the road facing leads down to houses below. Behind me are the local restaurants – we had an excellent lunch in the appropriately named “Corner of the Bazaar” restaurant !!  

The UNESCO Medallion announcing the appointment of the city in the Heritage Category has a pride of place at the crossroads next to two monuments erected remembering the Resistance heroes. 

Described by the UNESCO World Heritage committee as “a rare example of a well-preserved Ottoman town, built by farmers of large estates,” Gjirokaster’s old town appears like a quaint fairy tale village.

We were now in the Old Town - The narrow stone-paved streets, the window box-lined balconies, and artisan work studios add to the idyllic setting. The old town area dates mainly between 17^th – 19^th C and known as the Old Bazaar. Woodworking artisans, local wine purveyors, and tourist trinkets can be discovered everywhere. We were really surprised to see the numerous pastry shops and ice-cream parlours. Locals seem to have a sweet tooth !   

This is the crux of the old town - where a few streets meet together. As they say, all roads lead here!! Its full of tourtist shops and a hive of activity even in the early tourist season when we were there. 

Gjirokastra's most interesting sight in no way relates to traditional architecture, but instead to a far more modern kind: this is a giant bunker built deep under the castle for use by the local authorities during the full-scale invasion that communist leader Enver Hoxha was so paranoid about. Built in secret during the 1960s, it has 80 rooms, its existence remained unknown to locals until the 1990s. Personal guided tours run from the tourist information booth on the main square all day. It's an interesting contrast to Tirana's Bunk'Art exhibitions : unlike the capital's version, this bunker is virtually empty and feels even more creepy as a result. The rooms have their use displayed on the door and nothing else, though it's interesting to note that the bunker – which could hold up to 300 people – had everything from its own classroom to a law court.

Whilst walking around the streets, we came across a shop front promoting the Cold War Tunnel and Iso-polyphony music. Intrigues, I went in, paid the fee and sat to watch a video. The film showed Albanian traditional instruments and esoteric figures floating around. After a few minutes, I got bored and got up as it was atonal and lacking vibrancy. The owner wanted me to go thru the Cold War Tunnel but I was reluctant. 

We found ourselves walking up a series of steps which turned out to be the top of Kodra Hill – from there, we got a phenomenal view of the whole old and new town as well as the surrounding countryside. A wonderful place to relax and have a few beers or wine. In the evenings, though we never went, the view must be quite something.

 

  

There are two traditional houses one can see. These are kept to let everyone know how Albanians lived in the pre-dictatorship era. Our guide suggested we visit Skenduli House as it was near to where we already were. Unlike the Zekate, it does not include a tour as the keeper speaks no English. Our guide spoke in Albanian to a tourist guide of an English speaking group already there, so we latched on to that group at no cost! The house is interesting. Rather rickety steep old stairs.

    

The building has 64 windows. Built of stone and layered with chestnut wood at the height of a male to keep the wall standing! We saw the bunker which has a double ceiling for strength. The public areas, like the mens’ drawing room, the ladies’ zenana, part of the kitchen, the cupboards etc reminded me of traditional Indian homes when joint families lived together and had a “happier” existence. The only part we were not allowed to photograph was the wedding chamber. The ceiling has two parts. The entry begins with a ceiling with one large rosette  under which the bride stands. Further into the room, which is lined with large horizontal cushions on settees (like in the other rooms), the ceiling has two rosettes. The to-be-married couple stand under these rosettes and the mullah (priest) does the formalities. Interesting building worth the ups and downs.   

As I got out, going towards the street, I suddenly saw the entry to a tunnel. Just see the old war supplies on sale sold by an entrepreneur shop keeper. Huge stocks of army surplus equipment  !!

Gjirokastër is also known for the art of cooking :: special dishes such as qifqi, pasha meatballs, shapkat, oshaf with dry figs (a dessert with sheep’s milk, sugar and dry figs). My friend Nirad, in charge of the culinary side for each meal had found a restaurant called The Barrels. It was a few kilometres out of town but as we had a car we decided to go, especially as it had its own vineyard. It was pitch black as there are no road lights in the countryside. We met the owner and he showed us his vineyard where he has grapes of different varieties – he gets about 10,000 bottles a year, if I recall correctly. The seating area was under the vine trees – gave privacy and a wonderful ambience. Nirad chose an excellent red and then we indulged in the local mezze platter, salad and the main course. The dessert came upto our expectations.  We began by sitting outside but the cold wind was chilling so we moved inwards and enjoyed the dinner. Definitely a place to be visited if you are there. 

It’s the fashion in Albania to name hotel properties as “Boutique hotels” - cute but totally erroneous in most cases. In Gjirokaster, the owners’ knowledge of English was very limited; but they were extremely polite and went out of their way to make us comfortable. They have only five rooms. I chose this property as the photos made it appear central and a decent place. Actually turned out to be on top of one of the many hills and a long long walk into the town. Without a car, you are doomed. There is a small bus service but it has rather limited timings. Here, they are holding a painting which I had gifted to them. 

Qifqi (cheef – chee). This dish is made by mixing cooked rice and whipped raw eggs with mint powder, black pepper, and salt. Formed into little balls, they are fried until lightly golden in color. Divine in taste

       

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