We were on a day tour from Tbilisi to Mtskheta –
Uplistsikhe and Gori returning back to Tbilisi. One of the highlights of the
day was to see the museum dedicated to the life of Joseph Stalin, the war time leader,
Communist dictator of Russia and mass exterminator of his fellow Russians. Stalin
was born in Gori and hence the museum is located here. Tbilisi via Mtskheta to
Gori is around 250 kms – Gori being North West of Tbilisi.
Typical of Communist countries, the officials
give instructions and speak less. So, other than telling us when the next tour
would begin, there was no talk from the ticket counter grandma. We decided not
to wait and went on our own, and had an incredible insight into what it must
have been like in Stalin’s time.
The whole place exudes a glory to Stalin’s image. The main structure was built in 1951 is like a palazzo in Stalinist Gothic style. It was planned a museum of history of socialism but , after Stalin’s death in 1953, it became a memorial to him.
A permanent exhibition about Stalin’s life and activities is presented in six large rooms:
- Materials of the first hall tell about
Stalin’ s activities before and during the revolution.
- The second hall embraces the period of
1925-1939 of the Soviet history when the Party led by Stalin fought for
the economic and cultural development of the country.
- In the third hall, there are documentary
photos of the period of World War II. It’s possible to see here photos
taken at Teheran, Yalta, and Potsdam conferences. One of the interesting photos of Stalin
without retouch is exhibited. One of the stands is about Stalin’s private
life.
- In the fourth hall, the sixth copy of
Stalin’s death mask is placed between marble pillars (Author of the mask
–sculptor M. Manizer). And here a canvas “Stalin in His Coffin” by a
People’s painter of the USSR Japaridze is exhibited.
- Presents to Stalin are exhibited in the
fifth hall of the museum.
- There are Stalin’s personal things and
his study where he worked in 1918-1922 in the sixth hall.
- A separate room of the museum is devoted to the period of repressions. It’s existed since 2010.
Stalin’s was born in a small wooden hut – his father
was a shoemaker. He lived in one room, the landlord lived in the second of the
two ground floor property.
There are some interesting insights – the many
times Stalin was caught, jailed, exiled and….escaped !! it shows his ingenuity
as escaping from the Siberian jails was not easy. There is the model of Stalin’s
country cottage where they had an illegal printing press which was deep down
and accessible through a well and steps !!
After handing over the ticket at the top of the
stairs, you enter a vast hall which is actually split in open sections. The
exhibits are around the walls and some sre standalone exhibits in the centre of
the room. All exhibits have captions in Georgian and many have it in English
also. The y start with his family tree and parental background and then proceed
to his education and involvement with communist movement. There are photographs,
personal family items, newspaper articles, paintings, and other displays from
his lifetime.
As the exhibits upstairs are nearing the end,
you gently climb down a circular stair case and see Stalin’s death mask. The political
leadership of the time made 12 copies of his death mask, shortly after his
death, and the one exhibited here is the 6th copy.
There are rooms filled with photographs of his
involvement in the political movement of his time. Stalin was ruthless and he connived
to get all his party colleagues executed on various charges. Not only this, he
also felt threatened by his own family and had them killed. A true psychopath.
Joseph Stalin's regime caused the deaths of millions through
executions, forced labour Gulag camps, famines (like the Holodomor), and mass
deportations, with estimates varying widely from around 3.3 million officially
recorded deaths (executions, Gulag, deportations) to much higher figures of 20
million or more when including famine victims, with some historians suggesting
totals as high as 40-45 million deaths from terror, famine, and forced labour.
The exact number is debated, but official archives reveal at
least 800,000 executions, 1.5-1.7 million Gulag deaths, and hundreds of
thousands more from forced resettlement.
Stalin’s Railway carriage is armour plated and
weighs a humungous 83 tons. It was used by him from 1941 onwards and taken to
the famous Yalta Conference and the Tehran Conference. After his death, it was
shunted to the railway yards at Rostiv on the Don and only in 1985 was it sent
to the museum.
The carriage is kept locked and only groups of
visitors can see it – so, until a large enough group has formed, you just have
to wait…patience is a key attitude needed in any Communist country.
We spent quite some time in this museum as it
revealed many unknown facts about Joseph Stalin. He was a dedicated Communist,
married a few times, brilliant strategist as seen in the defence of Stalingrad
against the Nazis in WW2, a maniac who killed off his family members and sent
millions to the Gulag due to his political insecurities but still a man who
united the vast country known as Russia into the USSR. The Man with the Iron
Hand.
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