Sushi at Momonoki - Kyoto - an unbelievable culinary experience

Sushi is an acquired taste. You like it or you don’t. No in between about it. My son and his family crave it – they love it. I have no feelings for it as I don’t like raw fish. So, when in Japan last year, it became an obsession for my son to go to a good sushi place.

He spent frustrating hours looking for a top-notch sushi place in Kyoto and Tokyo. Those he wanted to visit were booked months ago. The search actually began about two months before we arrived in either city – this will give you an idea of how treasured these small restaurants are. Yes, the really good one are small – around 10 – 15 seats max, and the pressure for turnaround is great. You enter, you are served and you depart. The only time you get to relax is when you see the master chef gently slicing the fish and creating his visual masterpieces. 

 

Sushi Momonoki Kyoto" is a restaurant located in Shimogyo-ku, Kyoto City, Kyoto Prefecture.  It can be reached by taking the Tozai Subway Line, JR Kyoto Line, Tokaido Main Line, or Sagano Line and walking for about 4 minutes from Kyoto Station. The restaurant has 25 seats including counter seats and private rooms.  

The restaurant is in a non descript skyscraper and found with great difficulty as all signs are in Japanese. We soon realised during our Japan tour that restaurants need not be at ground level. Space is at a premium and many times, we had to ask for directions as all signage is in Japanese. You may arrive using Google maps but then where is it ?? Use humans to reach your destination !! 

As we exit the elevator, we enter through a nondescript door with a sign in Japanese. We had to reach well in time as if late and you miss the 10 minutes grace time, your booking is gone. I saw a L-shaped table and a couple seated at the corner of the long part of L. We were taken to the far side of the long L – so, next to me was the wall.   

The sushi knives are a work of art – we were in Tokyo’s Kappabashi Kitchenware district to see knives – the mind boggles at the variety as there are knives for every type of meat and fish and sushi in particular. See my blog on Tokyo. But I am jumping the gun a bit as were in Kyoto and this was my first experience at seeing a sushi master at work with his finely honed knife. Tokyo was to follow. 

We ordered a local beer. The master chef welcomed us with a smile – we were the only Indians later joined by an American couple. Total eight of us ; four per row. I requested a menu and the chef handed it to me. I saw 13 items, many I did not recognise. My enthusiasm was not on par with my son who was really excited being in a top local sushi restaurant being one of his bucket list. In fact, he topped this place by going to a 20 course sushi place in Tokyo which was mind boggling in terms of items, quality and ….price.

                                                                                    

Sushi Momonoki Kyoto is originally from a famous Chinese restaurant in Akasaka, Tokyo.  They have inherited its history and techniques.  The special anniversary course, in particular, offers great value with 9 pieces of sushi and a total of 19 dishes. At this restaurant, the chefs put emphasis on quality ingredients and carefully prepare the dishes.  The lunch menu is also diverse and highly satisfying.

I carefully watched the chef. He would glance at the menu. An assistant in the wings behind him ensured all ingredients were available. The chef would think for a while and then he would prepare the item. As there were only eight of us, at various stages of the menu depending upon when we arrived there, he would serve us accordingly. So, someone was on item #2 and someone could be on item # 5. 

The chef would take the rice, in his palm and tamp it gently. Then put the rice ball on the seaweed per person. He would carefully measure out the roe and delicately place it on the item. Satisfied, with his chopsticks he would place the item in front of us, sometimes with a garnish like ginger finely sliced. 

The soup items were an eye opener as they were small in quantity, beautifully decorated and very tasty. One cannot ask for seconds !! I had no clue about the ingredients ! 

Out of the 13 items, I did not eat the squid or eels. Frankly by the 10^th item, I was full. It was a good experience but not one I would repeat as I am not a fan of sushi. The turnover of guests was fast. As soon as you finished your last item, the bill was presented and you left the restaurant. Another person / group would come in your place.

We were told that those looking for a truly memorable dining experience, Sushi Momonoki offers special courses that highlight the chef's expertise. The Open Memorial Course, priced at 10,000 yen has 19 specially curated dishes, while the popular Omakase Nigiri Course priced at 15,000 yen offers 21 exquisite pieces of sushi. Sushi dinners can cost up to US$ 250 or more depending upon the maestro.

 

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