Gibbons. The natural acrobats of the animal world. They have incredible strength in their arms when they jump from one branch to another way up in the trees. In northeast India, the Hoolock is found south of Brahmaputra and east of the Dibang Rivers.
The Hollongapar Gibbon Sanctuary, formerly known as the Gibbon Wildlife Sanctuary or Hollongapar Reserve Forest is an isolated green forest area located in Assam. The sanctuary was officially constituted and renamed in 1997. Set aside initially in 1881, its forests used to extend to the foothills of the Patkai mountain range. Since then, the forest has fragmented and tea gardens and small villages surround it. Two species of Hoolock gibbons, Eastern Hoolock gibbon (Hoolock leuconedys) and Western Hoolock gibbon (Hoolock hoolock) have been reported to occur in India. They are found in Assam and the low-end forests of eastern Brahmaputra. They are also found in Nagaland. The Hollongapar Gibbon Sanctuary contains India's only gibbons – the Hoolock gibbons, and North Eastern India's only nocturnal primate – the Bengal slow loris.
The upper canopy of the forest is dominated by the Hollong trees, while the Nahar trees dominate the middle canopy. The lower canopy consists of evergreen shrubs and herbs. The habitat is threatened by loggers, encroachment of human settlements and fragmentation of the natural surrounds.
The original area started with 206 ha (0.80 sq mi) and then shrank in 1896 as sections were de-reserved. Then came the era of tea gardens between 1880 and 1920, and villages were established during the 1960s to rehabilitate people from Majuli and adjoining areas who had lost their lands to floods, the forest became fragments and the reserve became isolated from the foothills.
To see these wonderful creatures, from our resort, we had an early departure by 5.30 am for the gibbon sanctuary at Hollongapar. It took three hours to reach. We began by paying the fees. We had walked past the abandoned railway siding and entered the forest office. Vandan, the BNHS member / guide and mentor for the group, had in fact created groups of the fit or runners and the slow walkers who would have to keep pace with the forest guards when gibbons are sighted. Also as we were in a jungle, no one was to be alone. Rehan, the travel agent rep, was the last man with the guard. However fate was kind to us. There was no need to run after the foresters. We found that there was a gibbon family just a few hundred metres down the path from the forest hut by the gate.
Gibbons rarely come down to the ground, spending most of their day on the top most branches of the trees, swinging effortlessly through the forest using their long arms. This is known as brachiation. They are capable of leaping long distances through the air from branch to branch or running atop the leaves in the treetops.
It’s quite an amazing sight seeing them move fast and jump or drop long distances in the trees. Their diet consists mainly of fruits, insects and leaves.
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I was with a group of nature lovers, primarily birders, of the Bombay Natural History Society. I am not a birder but with these crazy dedicated enthusiasts, I was getting into the learning curve on birding! You learn so much from them. I know my eyes soon got focussed to seeing birds which was never the case earlier. One of the main highlights of our trip was to see gibbons at Hollongapar. I had never heard of this reserve before, but one is always learning.
The Hollongapar Gibbon Sanctuary, formerly known as the Gibbon Wildlife Sanctuary or Hollongapar Reserve Forest is an isolated green forest area located in Assam. The sanctuary was officially constituted and renamed in 1997. Set aside initially in 1881, its forests used to extend to the foothills of the Patkai mountain range. Since then, the forest has fragmented and tea gardens and small villages surround it. Two species of Hoolock gibbons, Eastern Hoolock gibbon (Hoolock leuconedys) and Western Hoolock gibbon (Hoolock hoolock) have been reported to occur in India. They are found in Assam and the low-end forests of eastern Brahmaputra. They are also found in Nagaland. The Hollongapar Gibbon Sanctuary contains India's only gibbons – the Hoolock gibbons, and North Eastern India's only nocturnal primate – the Bengal slow loris.
Historically, sporadic evergreen trees covered the area along with Bojal bamboos. In 1924, artificial regeneration was introduced in an attempt to develop well-stocked, even-aged forest. These plantations along with the natural vegetation subsequently created a forest stocked with a rich variety of vegetation.
During the 1900s, forest areas were added to the reserve, eventually totalling 2,098.62 ha (8.1 sq mi) by 1997. However, the sanctuary remains fragmented into five distinct segments. We were told that today the park is 21 sq kms. There are now 45 - 50 elephants in the park. Hence the guards accompanying us. There are 26 families of gibbons, total 106 gibbons as per the last census. A tremendous increase in numbers compared to a decade ago. In the park, they have wild elephants, leopards, wild boar, civet cats, deer of various types, and seven types of primates.
Three extensive tea gardens that belong to the estates of Dissoi, Kothalguri, and Hoolonguri span the distance between the Hollongapar Gibbon Sanctuary and the nearest forests in Nagaland, the Dissoi Valley Reserve Forest.
Like all apes, the Hoolock Gibbons are distinctive in the great development of the arms, which are much longer than the legs. They also do not possess any tail. The long arms are actually more than double the length of its legs and are a key balancing organ without the tail associated with arboreal monkeys.
They reach a size of 60 to 90 cm and weigh 6 to 9 kg. The sexes are about the same size, but they differ considerably in coloration: males are black-coloured with remarkable white brows, while females have a grey-brown fur, which is darker at the chest and neck. White rings around their eyes and mouths give their faces a mask-like appearance.
To see these wonderful creatures, from our resort, we had an early departure by 5.30 am for the gibbon sanctuary at Hollongapar. It took three hours to reach. We began by paying the fees. We had walked past the abandoned railway siding and entered the forest office. Vandan, the BNHS member / guide and mentor for the group, had in fact created groups of the fit or runners and the slow walkers who would have to keep pace with the forest guards when gibbons are sighted. Also as we were in a jungle, no one was to be alone. Rehan, the travel agent rep, was the last man with the guard. However fate was kind to us. There was no need to run after the foresters. We found that there was a gibbon family just a few hundred metres down the path from the forest hut by the gate.
So, hardly past the forest office and its guard quarters, up in the trees, we saw three gibbons with a baby. Awesome sight as they swung effortlessly and dropped from one branch to another. Got great videos of them swinging. They live together in monogamous pairs, which stake out a territory. We wanted to hear their early morning calls which are unique. Their calls serve to locate family members and ward off other gibbons from their territory.
Gibbons are known most for these shrill calls. With the first rays of the sun, the family starts jumping from tree to tree. It is then that one member, usually the father starts calling – a loud howl reverberating in the depths of the jungle. This is followed by calls of the other members of the family, chitchatting and progressing through the tree tops. It is believed that the name Hoolock too is derived from the Assamese or Hindi word ‘ulluck’ meaning the loud call or howl of the gibbon.
In Nagaland and Assam there was once a time when people calculated the time of the day according to the howls and hooting of the Gibbons. With the morning calls, the farmers knew it was time to go to their fields. In the afternoon when the female gibbon would make a great call which was followed by the male, people knew it was time for lunch.
This walk lasted from 8.50 am to 12 noon...
It was a circular walk and we saw numerous birds, butterflies etc.
Vandan had taken the precaution of spreading salt on our shoes and socks so leeches don’t climb up but still many tried to come onto the shoes. Luckily only two people had leeches on them but that was because they had worn sandals.
There is a white bark tree which is used for making aromatic perfumes. Each tree can be sold at ₹ 1 ½ - 2 lakhs per tree.
We had lunch at a nice lodge called Gibbon Resort, Nagadera, Naliachari which had great food laid out for us. The manager was a Nepali and he really looked after us.
We left at 2.30 pm, reached our resort after three hours, had the usual tea and pakoras and then relaxed. It had been a great day seeing these primates swinging free and happy. The only regret was that we did not hear their call. I am glad that I saw the gibbons here as when in Agartala, we went to Barekuri village where allegedly there are gibbons but we saw nothing! 
Text and photographs copyright of the author. No part of this article or photographs maybe transmitted or reproduced by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without written permission. Do contact the author on email -- helpthesun@gmail.com
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Text and photographs are copyright of the author. No part of any article or photographs maybe transmitted or reproduced by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without written permission. Do contact the author on email -- helpthesun@gmail.com