The Palaces of Sintra and Pena in Lisbon, Portugal

The colorful hill town of Sintra boasts three palaces, an old Moorish Castle, a gothic mansion, and miles of forested hiking paths. You have to visit the place as its so unique. The Sintra day excursion, like we did, is where you view man-made beauty in peaceful, garden surroundings.  

Sintra is a small town with congested roads and extremely limited parking, so it’s quite a hassle to drive. If you’re not interested in waiting for the overcrowded bus, there are plenty of taxis and tuk-tuks that will transport you between the palaces.

The # 434 bus  makes a loop from the railway station to three major sites in Sintra: the Palácio Nacional de Sintra, Castelo dos Mouros, and the Palácio Nacional da Pena. While it’s less than 3km from the railway station to the furthest stop - Pena Palace - it’s a steep incline to the top. Walking means a decent hike. Quinta da Regaleira is within walking distance of the train station, while the Palace of Monserrate is an additional three km up the road.

The Palacio Nacional Sintra is the best-preserved medieval royal palace in Portugal and was a favourite with the Portuguese nobility. The minimalistic gothic exterior of the palace hides a wonder of decorative state rooms. The palace’s long history has been intertwined with the fortunes of Portugal’s ruling nobility, who resided here from the early 15^th C to the late 19^th C making it Portugal’s most lived in royal palace.

The Palacio Nacional is situated right in the heart of Sintra and this led to it being referred to as the Palacio da Vila or the Town Palace. The most notable exterior features are the two massive 33 metre high chimneys which jut out from the kitchens - they are the icon of Sintra being its unique feature.

After the reconquest of Portugal , the Palace passed into the possession of the Crown and was extended three times. In 1281, King Denis  decreed that the conservation of the Palace should be entrusted to the enfranchised Moors. Later, in the early 15th century, king João I (1385-1433) built the central body of the building. In the first quarter of the 16th century, King Manuel I added several wings and in particular enriched the interior. It was refurbished in the 17^th  C. 

The Palacio Nacional de Sintra, built on the site of an important Moorish castle, was completely destroyed during the construction of the palace by king João I (John I 1385 – 1433). João undertook a major building program across Portugal and the Palacio Nacional de Sintra was one of his largest construction projects.

João constructed the original layout of the Palace which included the front whitewashed facades, the main entrance and the central courtyard which is known as the Ala Joanina. The early palace blended both Manueline styles and Moorish architecture. The two chimneys,  constructed during the first phase of building work, vent the large kitchens fires and ovens away from the main chambers of the Palacio Nacional.

The Sala dos Cisnes (Swan Room) celebrates the royal marriage of the lnfante Isabel de Portugal  with the French Duke of Burgundy, Philip the Good,  in 1430. Its ceiling is beautifully decorated with swans placed in octagonal panels.

This was the only room to have retained its original name. King Duarte called it The Chamber of  State as it was where he received the nobles. Despite restoration, it has retained the original decoration and the legend Por bem. Its now commonly called the Magpies Room or Sala das Pegas - takes its name from its magpies painted on the ceiling. Each magpie holds a rose (symbol of the  Queen Philippa's House of Lancaster) and says "Por bem". The legend has it that her husband King John I  (1357-1433) was caught by court women kissing a lady which led them to chatter like magpies. The King defended himself that the kiss was "Por bem" (without ill will or bad meaning) and got the ceiling painted by 136 magpies, one for each women of the court, so that they do not forget their duties of courtesan.

This is the Gold chamber called as such in the 15^th C. due to its decorations. Since disappeared!! It was used as a bedchamber by King Sebastian in late 16^th C. The tile wall shows raised vine leaves dating from beginning of the 16^th C which is unique. 

The palace has the largest collection of Mudéjar  Azulejos  or coloured glazed tiles in the world. This is the Coats of Arms Room or Sala dos Brasões. The room built by King Manuel 1 in 1508, exhibits the coats of arms of his contemporary 72 noble Portuguese families. 

The walls are covered by 16th century Azulejos  representing hunting scenes. Let the visuals speak for themselves. 

This room was used as the bedchamber of Joao 1 before the extensive restoration. Its current name is derived from the 18^th C Chinese Pagoda in the room.  

This is part of the vast kitchen which could serve food to over 1,000 guests.

This is the main hall of the royal residence built by Manuel 1, early 16th C. This wing was the last of the extensive construction campaigns carried out on the Palace and was restored in the 1930's. 

Palácio Nacional da Pena

The last stop on the 434 bus loop is the bright and multi-collared Pena Palace. This palace was commissioned by King Ferdinand II in 1842 in an attempt to rival the Neuschwanstein castle in Bavaria.

The façade serves as a colour-coded legend. The red portion of the castle is the oldest part, built on top of the 15th-century monastery that was rendered in ruins in the Great Lisbon Earthquake of 1755. 

The ochre or yellow arches and domes showcase the Moorish influence, while the blue tiled structures are reminiscent of the Manueline style.

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