The Temples of Kalna

During our tour of the Ganges by ship, we stopped for a day excursion at Kalna - a town, a municipality and headquarters of Kalna subdivision, 60 kilometres from Purba Bardhaman district HQ in West Bengal. It is situated on the western bank of the river Bhagirathi. The town is more popularly known as Ambika Kalna, named after a very popular deity, Goddess Kali, Maa Ambika. It has numerous historical monuments such as the Rajbari (the palace) and the 108 Shiva temples. 

A major landmark is the Siddheshwari Temple. It is dedicated to Debi Ambika, and it is after her that Kalna is also known as Ambika Kalna.

A major attraction is the Nava Kailash or 108 Shiv Mandirs. Built in 1809, the temples are constructed in two circles. One consists of 74 temples while the other circle has 34. The former has white marble and black stone shivlingas, while the latter has only white marble ones. Due to its ingenious planning, all the shivlingas can be seen from the centre of the temple complex. 

With most archaeological sites in India, the entrances are non descript, generally having riff-raff floating around. Here, after paying our fees, we entered this monument which had a decent well kept garden. We browsed around the whole place, between the two rows of temples. It’s true, technically you can see the linga in each of them, but of course, being dark inside, you have to imagine their location. Nonetheless its an interesting monument worth visiting.

Across from this monument, there is a vast temple complex which cant really be seen from the roadside. Its only when you enter that you see the real beauty of each unit. 


The Krishna Chandra Mandir (A.D. 1751-1752), with its 25 steeples, is another popular landmark. Scenes from the epics are depicted on its terracotta walls. 

On the walls of these temples, many terracotta are ornamented. There is an image of copulation engraved here. A hall adjacent to the Temple for devotional dancing and musical performances was erected. It is an indication of traditional sculpture, located in Bhaduri Para.

Looking at this monument, it reminded me so much of the Blue Mosque in Istanbul with its multiple domes

                   One of the most fascinating aspects of these temples are the many sculptures if various events which must have taken place locally at the time. You have a Portugese man-of-war ship, various musicians and ceremonies being shown in great detail – despite the natural damage over the centuries, still clear.                                           

The few temples shown here are with their official plaques so that i don’t have to repeat the facts. Just enjoy their beauty.

A few more temples and facts not shown here but which, if you go, you may wish to see----- "Maijir Bari was established in 1752 A.D and has the Shyamchand Radharani Mandir. It has preserved a tradition of nearly 300 years and even today festivals like Dol Purnima, Rath yatra, Jhulan Purnima, Annakot and Rash are celebrated every year involving the people of the region irrespective of caste, creed or religion.

Gopalbari Mandir consisting of 25 steeples signifies a perfect sculpture. In 688 A.D, Siddheshwari Kali Mandir was established by Rishi-Amburish. First time the Goddess was worshipped through the ritual of earthen-pot (ghatt). The ghatt sticks to a stone winnowing tray. This auspicious image is made of a single Neem log. This image represents the Bamakali Idol. The responsibility of this Goddess was shouldered on the part of -1.Sri Taraprassana Adhikari, 2. Kaliprassana Adhikari and now, the 7th generation personality Sri Sonatan Adhikari and Gopal Adhikari are the priest of this Temple. Long ago scarifies of human to the altar of the Temple was in vogue. But at present he-goat, sugarcane, gourd etc. instead of human. The Goddess is worshipped during the new moon in the month of Kartik.

Anantabasudev Mandir is situated at Shyamrai Para. It is about 250 years old. His Honour, Maharaj Bahktipromode Puri Goswami had renovated this Temple about 60 years back. Now Maharaj's nephews, nieces and their husband have got the responsibility of looking after it. About 250 years back, his Highness Maharaj of Burdwan founded this Temple".

Recently, Kalna Porjoton Utsab is being organized every winter in January. Since 2014, the entire Rajbari Temple Complex has been illuminated. Ras Manch is the main attraction there at evening.

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