Luang Prabang - the French influence never left . Now a World Heritage city.

There are cities with exotic names that roll of your tongue – Marrakesh. Cities which are sharp in tonal sound but exciting : London or New York. Then there are cities which are difficult to pronounce but still have a unique charm about them, like Luang Prabang : it means “city of the Golden Buddha Phra Bang”, a 83cm statue of which is believed to be the source of the city’s protection since the 14th C. On his marriage to a Khmer princess, warrior Fa Ngum was given the diminutive statue by his father-in-law, the King of Angkor, and it has since bounced back and forth between Bangkok and Luang Prabang in wars with Siam. Since 2013, however, it has sheltered in the golden Haw Pha Bang in the grounds of the Royal Palace. 

Years ago I had read about Luang Prabang (LP) when I was crossing from Ubong Ratchathani in eastern Thailand to Pakse, the capital and most populous city of the southern Laotian province of Champasak, where I had gone to see the famous temple. I had promised myself that one day, I would go as i was fascinated by the city and its history. We went via Bangkok and flew into LP. 

We went via Bangkok and flew into LP. Arriving after lunch but in time for a late snack, we enjoyed a super snack on the banks of the river Mekong... staying at the Belle Rive hotel. A wonderful old world property with excellent service and management. The staff helped me with all my future transport arrangements as I was travelling around the country – LP was just the first port of call. 

Luang Prabang is an outstanding example of the fusion of traditional architecture and Lao urban structures with those built by the European colonial authorities in the 19th and 20th centuries. It is at the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers at a height of 700m. Its unique, remarkably well-preserved townscape illustrates a key stage in the blending of these two distinct cultural traditions. The French have never really left LP : today, the city’s street name plates are in Lao and French and the French restaurants and bars abound. Many French and Europeans have moved to LP as they find the laid back calm lifestyle more relaxing and far less stressful / expensive than back home.  

                                                                                                                                 LP is amazingly laid back and most unlike a Lao town. It has super French cafes and restaurants along with local favourites. The Mekong and Nam Kha rivers meander gently through the town and has extensive natural beauty. 

We went on an evening cruise and later went on a day cruise to see some temple and a local village. 

After LP, we went to Nong Kiau which is a few hours drive away..do read my blog on that trip.   

Tangor's menu 

We enjoyed the cuisine in LP. The first day, we did not realise that throughout Laos there is a curfew ... all restaurants serve last orders by 10.00 pm or so but they have to shut by 11.00 pm so there is no real public night life. This is one of those leftover rules from the Communist regime... which still exists but discretely. We had gone for a long walk, a massage to shake out all those aches and pains, a drink or two at Tangor and suddenly found nobody was willing to serve food to us. Until we landed back at Tangor, this French place, where we had earlier had a drink and after pleading, we got couple of stomach filling starters.   

It is said that the Lao royal family, or its descendants live in this house.  

LP is a unique blend of different influences and i will quote extensively some information which explains why it is now a World Heritage city in 1995.

“The political and religious centre of Luang Prabang is the peninsula, with its royal and noble residences and religious foundations.  The traditional urban fabric of the old villages, each with its temple, was preserved by later constructions. The colonial urban morphology, including the network of streets, overlapped harmoniously with the previous model. Formerly the town limits were defined by defensive walls".

“The richness of Luang Prabang architecture reflects the mix of styles and materials. The majority of the buildings are, following tradition, wooden structures.  Only the temples are in stone, whereas one- or two-storey brick houses characterize the colonial element of the town.  The many pagodas or "Vat" in Luang Prabang, which are among the most sophisticated Buddhist temples in Southeast Asia, are richly decorated (sculptures, engravings, paintings, gilding and furniture pieces).  Wat Xieng Thong, which dates from the 16th century, comprises an ensemble of the most complex structures of all the pagodas of the town. It is remarkable both from the archaeological point of view, and from the Lao iconographic and aesthetic viewpoint". 

As there are many tribes in Laos, i found different massage types 

very few clients all around as frankly these girls don’t really know massage professionally.  

Le Banneton - It's the softness of the melt-in-your-mouth pastry that keeps us coming back to our favourite bakery in Luang Prabang, which serves pain au chocolat (chocolate croissants), pizza, terrine, baguette sandwiches, salads, crêpes and more. The ceiling is a maze of arabesques, there's a cool fan at every turn, and the white walls are offset by a passing blur of orange outside – monks from the monastery opposite. Located on the peaceful end of the peninsula, you'll need to get here early before the croissants run out!

The city abounds in temples... take your pick. Here a young couple dressed in traditional Lao costume came to offer special prayers.

“Many traditional Lao houses remain; they are built of wood using traditional techniques and materials introduced in the colonial period, such as plaited bamboo panels coated with wattle and daub.  Brick colonial buildings, often with balconies and other decorative features in wood, line the main street and the Mekong.

“The built heritage of Luang Prabang is in perfect harmony in the natural environment. The sacred Mount Phousi stands at the heart of the historic town built on a peninsula delimited by the Mekong and the Nam Khan, domain of the mythical naga. Ceremonies to appease the nagas and other evil spirits, and Buddhist religious practices (Prabang procession, the monks’ morning quest) perpetuate the sanctity of the place. Natural spaces located in the heart of the city and along the riverbanks, and wetlands (a complex network of ponds used for fish farming and vegetable growing) complement this preserved natural environment”.

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