Japan – Land of the Rising Sun and The Chrysanthemum Throne -

These are personal insights which you may find interesting. 

I had cajoled some family members into coming with me to Japan in May this year and we travelled across Central Japan (Tokyo, Takayama, Shirakawa go, Kanazawa, Kyoto, Koyasan, Nara and back to Tokyo). Then a short trip up north to Sapporo and Shiraoi. It was a fascinating experience as I was last there in 1972 when I went to Tokyo, Kyoto and Nara – memories of fabulous gardens with their carefully placed stones; temples and vegetarian banquets (because I was with my in-laws) with multiple food courses, each exquisitely designed, minimalistic in quantity and after 10+ courses, one came out starving !! At that time, vegetarian food was unknown… today, it still remains a difficult commodity to find.

We wanted to see parts of Japan where tourists don’t generally go – hence you will read place names which may be strange to you. This is where you walk the streets and see the real Japan, with the help of Japanese guides.  This article is about my experiences and thoughts about the people of Japan. One can only hope that we in India can emulate them in their amazing sense of pride, honesty and efficiency in the decades to come. It is a valuable lesson for those who have forgotten these values in the face of modern technology and social media. 

My insights are not given in any particular order of preference.

1.    Cleanliness, Politeness and Honesty – Japanese take immense pride in their work. I had read a book called “Abroad in Japan” by Chris Broad, an Englishman who went to Japan, straight out of university, to teach English to Japanese school kids.  It makes fascinating reading. He eventually became famous thru his podcasts but that book stirred something in me to go back to Japan.

I had been to England last year and was appalled by degradation of British society and the lack of interest by most sales staff in shops – they just pass the buck and were blunt in their negativity. In Japan, it was the total opposite. There is immense pride in their work. It is ingrained into their psyche from childhood. Yes, the younger generation today may be lesser inclined but its still there.

We saw only two apparently “homeless” people throughout our stay. Sitting by the roadside in Tokyo. Not begging. No beggars anywhere.

Japan is incredibly clean. We saw only one example of overflowing bins in a suburb of Tokyo. It is common practice for people to carry their own trash bags as they commute / travel / go out. They don’t throw stuff out in the street. In Shirakawa, famous for its thatched houses, you are told on arrival: Please take your trash back with you. There is a large waste bin in the toilets of the bus station. That’s it. Nothing anywhere else throughout the whole town. Recall the feeling you get when you are thirsty and desperate for water… here you feel the same when you have something to throw away but no bin in sight !!  Its damn difficult to practice this when you are used to trashing stuff in bins. We learnt as we went along! 

Trains, station platforms, streets, hotel rooms even when they state room cleaning every three days – Green policy – and most important toilets. SPOTLESS. You have heard of the fancy toilet seats which heat up, multiple spraying options etc; but what you do not know is that even in the smallest pub or dive or public space, the loos are always spotless. I often saw elderly men scrubbing away at sinks in loos and felt like saying: I don’t see any dirt. It was the best feeling to know that anywhere you went, the loo is clean.

Politeness is a given. Japanese bow to each other all the time.  The most important point is the depth of the bow. It is based on respect, status, seniority, hierarchy, repetition etc. It is clear cut and understood by all, except us foreigners. I loved that the train station platform guards bowed to each train driver as the train passed them whilst coming to a halt. Its all about respect and seniority. You will see it everywhere people meet each other, even strangers, except amongst close friends.

We were lost a few times and asked directions. My language skills were limited to a cheat sheet (when you want it, it’s in the haversack or you can’t find the sentence you need !) and Google Translate. Each time, the person would go out of his way, once for ten minutes, to put us on the right street or lane. Nobody shrugs you off.

2.   Efficiency and uniqueness – This is awesome as its all uniquely Japanese.  Most Japanese websites and devices which need explanation always have detailed explanations on how to use the site / device. Even in English. Every possible question is answered there.

 

a)  The Shinkansen experience  It began with my online bookings for shinkansen trains – the bullet trains. I had worked out that Rail pass is not workable or economic for us as we were staying in different cities for a few days each time. We also needed to use the Shinkansen for the long-distance trips. The website is amazingly helpful, and I booked with them. For the Kyoto – Tokyo section, i requested seats on the Mt Fuji side. Each of my booking requests was answered promptly. Queries within max 24 hours. Tickets delivered to the hotel where I was staying 24 hours in advance with email notification to me that tickets handed to hotel staff. Wow.  I used the website link of Shinkansen-Ticket.com is a travel agency specialized in Shinkansen ticket arrangements with extensive knowledge and experience of Japanese railroads. 

The train is on time invariably and if late, they apologize. At Nara, we were actually staying at an hotel above the station. We did not know that the special new Aoniyoshi Tourist train left from another station. So, it was a real shock to maneuver our heavy suitcases across streets and large city squares. It was a good 15 - 20 minutes away and we could not find a single cab. We were really running at the end. Minutes to go. We found the station, the entry, then asking the station ticket inspector - we were told to buy platform tickets!! The inspector messaged the train staffer that some pax were running late! A lady staffer came with us, helped pour our loose change into the machine, get the tickets, ran downs the stairs to the platform at the next level. She indicated by hand signal to the door inspector that we were coming in. We literally threw our bags in and piled into the vestibule and the train left!! That was the closest I ever came to missing a train ! But it was due to the superb coordination and help of the Station staff that we caught it.

    ·         Website: https://shinkansen-ticket.com/. Their website is incredibly detailed and answers every possible travel query.  

·         Email: info@shinkansen-ticket.com    

b)   Accommodation – you will have heard of Love Hotels and Pod hotels but these are not that common. Generally, one considers western style hotels or Ryokans – Japanese style. I wanted our group to experience a Ryokan – a) houses run by a family or a genteel lady with futon beds and tatami mat floors. Size of the room is evaluated / counted by the number of mats. b) hotels which give foreigners the ryokan experience. I found that the private ryokans, centrally located in a city, were either fully booked or frightfully expensive (6*+ prices). We chose to stay at a Kanazawa hotel ryokan. As you enter and are checked in (if early, you have to wait till check in time; else pay Yen 2,000 – Yen 3,000 per hour for extra earlier check in. Rates vary). You leave your shoes in a locker and wear the slippers provided to all tourists, residents etc. Unfortunately, these are Japanese sizes – for me, they were small and most uncomfortable. Everywhere, from ground floor onwards you have to use these. As mine kept slipping, I took out my own room slippers and wore them. I was caught twice by the staff but explained to them that these were room slippers and clean – then they agreed. But each time you went out, there was a shoe change. The lobby was full of tourists doing just that !! 

The Kanazawa bed was like a hotel bed but raised. One did a balancing act to get on the bed or just jumped on and then slid forward. At Koyasan, I had managed with great difficulty to get accommodation in a Buddhist temple. It was highly recommended. Loos were shared and outside the rooms at different levels. Here we slept on the floor. I do not recommend ryokans or temple inns to those who have back, knee or bending issues.

Every hotel has a laundry room – rates vary but they all have washing machines and dryers. Every washing machine has an inbuilt soap dispenser so do not carry any soap sachets or powder with you.

c) Hotel staff are hard pressed with many tourists this year but there is unfailing courtesy and politeness towards you. Most hotels will keep your bags for you, under security, in the hotel lobby. You take what you need to your room. If you are returning back after a few days, no problem – the bags will stay with the hotel. Totally safe.

d) Coin counters – Europeans use calculators, most middle-aged Indians use their brains as we were taught multiplication tables to the ½ and ¼, the youngsters use their phones. In Japan, in most outlets, rail stations, airports, restaurants / shops and places with turnover, they use a small machine…. the readout tells you the amount to pay. You personally put the notes into the machine. Add the handful of coins – no need to count. The machine will spit out the excess coins and you get your receipt. A wonderful time saver. I used it all the time as the coinage is difficult to understand…. Why is the smaller denomination coin larger than the higher one? The writing is always difficult to read.

e) At Tokyo airport, do not forget to change your currency before immigration. They accept all coins and currency notes. What a blessing as till date, I have not found any forex counter in any country where they accept your coins. 

f)  Clothes rental. I was going to Hokkaido where the weather was 8 – 10 degs vs 20-24 degs elsewhere in Japan. For 3-5 days, I did not want to carry woollens with me. After a bit of research, I found an amazing company. “Anywear, Anywhere”. It’s founded by three young entrepreneurs. Their goal is where everyone can travel without any luggage. Leave your luggage behind and enjoy your travel. Sounds farfetched considering human nature but there is a point behind it. They offer clothes for any of the four seasons, in sizes ranging from XS to 3XL. Men, women and children. I was hesitant initially as I wasn’t sure about the fit… I have long arms and need extra length sleeves. The website mentions JAL and Sumitomo Corp as their venture partners. The facility of rental is open to any pax arriving into Japan by any airline, not just JAL.

I sent detailed measurements to Miho san and she confirmed delivery exactly as per my date requirements. The company rented out four tops and two trousers to me. The tops varied from a V neck pullover, a thick hoodie to a heavy duty padded windbreaker. Delivered to my hotel in Tokyo 24 hours prior to arrival with an email to me. The real beauty is the return process of these goods. No cleaning required. No courier back. Just pack them in the black cover in which you received them, put the return label and give to the hotel staff. That’s it. Your job is done. No worries about returning the clothes. You do realize this is possible due to the honesty of staff all around – the company, the courier delivering, the hotel accepting. The same for return, in reverse order. So, if you think you will keep something back, beware. You will be billed for it.

The clothes were a total blessing. They fitted perfectly and I had occasion to wear all the tops. Thew trouser was so comfortable that I got the trouser brand name for a future purchase. The whole process was very economic for the 15 days rental. If you are going to Japan, definitely consider clothes rental. Use the baggage space for shopping instead.  

·         Email id: customerservice_anywearanywhere@sumitomocorp.com   Yup, its one long email id – longer than the alphabet – it has 48 letters – has to be a Guinness world record !! Check the underscore hyphen and spellings carefully.

·         Website: https://anywearanywhere.store/   

f)   Transport of baggage so you are not inconvenienced in stations or airports – Their system of sending luggage from one city to another so you don’t carry it on the public network is amazing. Totally reliable and cheap. We sent our suitcases from X to Y and then again to Z and they reached spot on time. No back pain, no lugging on station stairwells. The railways and other travel related agencies recommend you use one of two major luggage courier companies – we used Yamato It is really good. 

The suitcase /luggage is handed to the hotel reception or one of the many Yamato offices all over town. They measure the bag. They take delivery and depending upon time of day, your bag will be delivered to your next destination within 36 – 48 hours. Cost to us was about INR 500-600 per bag. The subways do not have escalators everywhere unlike Europe. There will be a lift (elevator)  at the far end of the platform – so you have to maneuver your bag thru the crowd to that lift where there are already many pax waiting. Then lug it around, find transport to the hotel etc. Here, the bag just meets you at your hotel. We sent bags all over – Tokyo to Kyoto; Sapporo to Tokyo; Kanazawa to Kyoto etc. On time, every time. What a relief.

Website: https://www.global-yamato.com/en/hands-free-travel/facilities/

g) pedestrian crossings – Indians believe that roads are for them as pavements don’t exist. We walk across the road whatever the colour of the light. In England, in the 60-80’s people queued and waited at traffic lights. In Japan, you notice that a) pedestrian crossings are really wide – double those we see elsewhere. They are clearly marked. b) everybody waits and, here it is, they stay within the black lines. The way they cross their roads, adhering strictly to being within the zebra crossing is unreal. I never saw anybody walking outside those black lines when crossing. Discipline. 

There is one exception which is world famous - the eight road Shibuya crossing in Tokyo which sees thousands daily crossing all over the place … has to be seen to see the mad house. Its just incredible, especially in the evenings. 

h) taxis – these are expensive but at times one has no option eg it’s the direct route to the destination if you wish to avoid multiple metro changes and bus routes. Drivers are honest, well dressed (tie, white shirt, black jacket) and polite. Many are middle aged. To offer a tip is an insult as  they see taxi driving as their duty. In Tokyo, you have the London style black cabs which are easy to get into and comfortable (in Sydney I strained my back muscle trying to get into / out of their low-slung vehicles. Hated it.) These black cabs take 3 pax. We found that there are larger cabs which take 6-7 pax too and at the cab rank, you tell the attendant what you want and he helps you. For our group, it was a real bonus as we could travel together without getting lost, as happened when we went to the bamboo forest in Kyoto – each cab landed up at a different entrance gate and we were split up for nearly two hours. 

3) Japanese food – there are three main cuisines – Sushi, Ramen and “Other” food which includes wagyu beef and the rest.

At every single place, large or small, you have to reserve… no such thing as a walk-in. You see empty seats in a restaurant but you will be told to wait; often upto 90 mins!! Why? Because they say its reserved!! To get bookings in top restaurants, out of the question as its done months in advance. We walked often from restaurant to restaurant looking for veg food as 4 of the 6 in our group were veg.; very frustrating spending two hours daily trying to get a place.

Another point – restaurants are often in multi storeyed buildings. You will arrive as per GPS and then spend time looking around for the place – you ask people … they don’t know. Finally, it strikes you to look at the hoardings / name boards on the building or the name plate on the wall: does it resemble what is on your phone ?

One aspect I could not understand - Rigidness in order – no variations esp. in restaurants when you want an additional item or wish to replace one item with another and are willing to pay extra. Invariably, the answer was Not possible. I think its because the kitchen staff are given instructions on what goes into each item; and what quantity. If they change, then how do they account for it ?  How do they bill it ? So, you eat as per the menu item.

Sushi – For those who don’t know, sushi is only about Fish - eaten raw! “Fish” includes everything which swims / lives in the sea. These restaurants vary from the standard roadside eateries to the really top-notch places where there are only 8 – 12 seats around the Chef’s working place. My son spent 4 hours on the Kyoto – Tokyo bullet train trying to get one dinner booking at a top Tokyo sushi place. Eventually he was lucky. It had been on his bucket list, like buying knives – which he did. He insisted I go with him – it was an interesting experience as I don’t like sushi. The place was on the 9^th floor, about 100 sq. ft. of sitting area – 4 seated in front of the chef and 4 on his left side. The Master Chef serves you as per his list. You eat what you are given. Two waiters hovered behind us. 

The service area was to the chef’s right. I sat facing right across him so I could see everything. I photographed his every move, each dish served to us and even asked him the names of the items using Google Translate – actually you should keep silent and eat what he serves. I took refuge in my ignorance and thanking him in Japanese each time, using a special phrase : Itadakimasu : I am glad to receive this meal and Gochisosama-deshita = thanks for the food. They really appreciate this. At the end, I took his list of items served which surprisingly was in English and Japanese. I could manage only nine dishes as the rest were variations of eel and other stuff which I don’t eat. One is given a fixed time and if late, you may miss your spot. Around 2 hours for the whole experience. My son went to a still better rated sushi place with some 20 items and came back looking like the smiling Buddha !

 

An important aspect of Japanese food is its presentation – great care and devotion is put into ensuring the cuisine is beautifully presented – its like Japanese wrapping of items – these are works of art and everything must be precisely folded, matched etc. 

Sushi maestro restaurants aren’t cheap. They are very expensive.

 

Ramen – or noodles. We are familiar with the haka noodles and 2 or 3 varieties available in Europe or India. Here there is a whole alphabet full of different types. Generally served with soup and extras like pork or beef. I dislike ramen noodles in a soup with add-ons as per your choice e.g. meat, fish etc. by the time you have managed to get a chopstick with spoon as “helper” full towards your mouth, half has slipped back and you are lucky if you don’t get splotches on the shirt. This is a staple dish.

 

Other items - Wagyu beef is well known. Famous in Kobe and Takayama – soft as butter – it just melts in your mouth. Good beef is expensive. Here, they serve it in small portions which makes the experience memorable – from taste, quantity and cost benefit viewpoint.

Vegetarian food is limited and it is advisable to do your homework on this before arriving. You must book the place in advance. We often walked for an hour going from one place to another trying to get seats. No luck. Its safest to eat Western vegetarian food but this is often limited to pizzas and spaghetti. 

Japanese hotel breakfast – these are awesome especially if you are into Japanese cuisine. They have over 50 – 60 separate items which range from soups, eggs, rice, noodles, meats, range of preparations.  In addition, there is western style buffet food. Always, runny scrambled eggs and bacon which looks half cooked. You will never find omelette or fried eggs. But overall, its good value for money as you get a range of fruit and different desserts, like Tiramisu too.

 

4) Japanese guides :  we hired guides in some of the cities as that’s the best way to see the main sights with a knowledgeable local.  Tokyo was impossible as they were all booked!           I believe that these guides need the support of tourists like us as they are dedicated excellent guides and their livelihood is very seasonal.

Kanazawa Japan	Lucy	+81 80 63567274
Takayama Japan	Happy Plus Tours	+81 70 4107 5301
Shirakawa Go	Mr Ryu	info-e@shirakawa-go.gr.jp ; +81 80 5769-6-1013
Kyoto	Ted	+81 80 6168 2083

 

Some issues where we had trouble adjusting - little we could do about it.

1) lack of suitcase racks on which to place a suitcase. Most gave one small rack suitable for a strolley, not suitcases. In a fancy Tokyo hotel, they gave us a record player in each room but refused to give even a chair for the bag. Nearly everywhere, I juggled my 24” bag on the table or a rack and the second one stayed on the floor. Imagine the pain in packing stuff in bags at two levels.

2) Room size. We are used to large hotel rooms. So, in Japan, you must be really careful in checking room size. Booking a room with a double bed ensures you get a smaller sized room vs a room with twin beds! You have to go for room sizes above 20 ^m2. I stayed in Tokyo for one night, on one of my many in and outs of the city, in a room which was 11 ^m2. You don’t realize how small the room is. I was climbing over myself !! Never again.

3) electrical outlets – ensure you carry enough adaptors. The outlets are in strange places dictated by the size of the room and décor.

4) Removal of shoes - When sightseeing, never wear shoes with laces. I did not realise this until too late. Everywhere, be it shrines, temples, ryokans, Japanese restaurants, private houses open to public etc. removing of shoes everywhere is obligatory.  Do not take shoes with laces to Japan – you will get fed up of taking these shoes off.

Happy travelling in Japan.

 

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