Overnight Stay in a Buddhist temple Inn - Koyasan, Japan

I had never heard of Koyasan until an acquaintance who specialises in Japan Tours told us about it. I was interested especially as I learnt that Koyasan is one of the best places to experience an overnight stay at a temple lodging (shukubo) where you can get a taste of a monk's lifestyle, eating vegetarian monk's cuisine (shojin ryori) and attending the morning prayers. Around fifty temples offer this service to both pilgrims and visitors. Little did I know what stress it would cause me !

First is the issue of getting to Koyasan – due to its higher location compared to Kyoto and Nara, it was always a difficult place to reach as you went via another place, eg Osaka; and meant multiple changes. This I was not at all keen on. Luckily, I learnt that a new bus service operated from Kyoto right up the top of Koyasan.  I managed to book but had to do two bookings, once for the men and another for the women.

Next came the return journey from Koyasan to Nara which we had to see. We had to take a cable car from Koyasan to Gokurakubashi and a connecting train to Namba Nankai. Transfer to JR Namba for a train to JR Nara. Excellent connecting trains throughout. The cable car was interesting and a new experience in Japan. Leaving Nara, I found out that the local train company had launched a brand new train a few days before our trip called the Aoniyoshi Tourist train from Nara to Kyoto  and we could then take our Shinkansen connection to Tokyo.

Mount Koya  Kōyasan is the center of Shingon Buddhism, an important Buddhist sect which was introduced to Japan in 805 by Kobo Daishi (also known as Kukai), one of Japan's most significant religious figures. A small, secluded temple town has developed around the sect's headquarters that Kobo Daishi built on Koyasan's wooded mountaintop. It is also the site of Kobo Daishi's mausoleum and the start and end point of the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage. 

In the year 816 AD, a monk by the name of Kukai (774 ~ 835 AD), posthumously named Kobo Daishi, founded Shingon Buddhism and the monastery complex known as Koyasan. Located in the lush Koya-Ryujin Quasi-National Park, it is said that the 8 peaks and basin resemble a lotus, making it an auspicious location. For over 1,200 years Koyasan has flourished as an active monastic centre and is one of Japan’s most sacred sites.

 Muryoko-in was founded by the fourth Imperial Prince of Emperor Shirakawa(1092-1153), in the Heian Period. The concourse was founded by the monk Kangen (854-925). Nobunaga Oda’s guardian monk and the priest at the time, from Asama Nagamasa of Makuhashi to Kocho (the first lord of the Wakayama clan), Nagasen (Hiroshima lord) and successive lords of the Asano family have their family temples here. Many leading Japanese families have their homes here.

To stay, one applies to the Koyasan Temple Lodging Office officially known as Koyasan Shukubo Association. We were allotted the Muryoko Inn. It was a long protracted discussion over many emails as they initially could not offer accommodation for six people. Then, they gave double rooms without bathrooms (these are shared with other guests). Eventually, we got with great difficulty, two singles and two doubles but only one room with ensuite facilities. 

• ·         Room with a private shower/toilet (1person)
• ·         Old Japanese Style room, Shared bath/toilet (1person)
• ·         Modern Japanese Style room, Shared bath/toilet (2people):
• ·         Old Japanese Style room, Shared bath/toilet(2people)

We left Kyoto at 08.10 am and arrived into Koyasan coach station at 11.08 am; a bit bewildered as it was empty and not a soul around. The coach driver told us that our Inn was literally round the corner ; a minute away. The entrance, like that of many other inns, was imposing and large. There was a large courtyard and we were welcomed by a monk and a young lady. Check in was not until 3.00pm. After the obligatory removal of shoes at the office entrance, where we left our bags, we went and washed up. We had many hours so decided to find the tourist office to get a guided tour of the town and especially of the Kongobuji Temple Complex.

It was hot and a long walk, there were very few westerners walking around. We passed the town centre and then went to the Tourist office where we immediately booked a tour….see separate blog.

One has to really appreciate the care the Japanese take to create a  beautiful environment using nature and local materials. Our Inn was really nice…. If we had two days there, we could have actually explored the town and the inn properly. The inn had a large, beautiful garden which I would have liked to walk around. 

Our rooms – see the photograph. Basically, very large and well furnished. The bed was rolled up mattresses and blankets usually in the centre of the room. The walls were simple but the screens had exquisite scenes. There was an air conditioner as well as a heater. I was graciously given by my group) the single room with the attached bathroom – the others had to go down a set of stairs and long corridor where the general toilets and baths were – segregated for men and women. The bath timings were from 4.30 pm to 7.00 pm. My room had items which I never used, primarily due to lack of time or need – like the tea service set shown.  Being an old building, like we saw elsewhere in Japan, there are different levels on which the rooms are. From the outside, you will never know this is the case. 

  After our tour, we rushed back as we had to be on time for dinner. They had given us Japanese style clothes to wear but I did not fancy changing. The monk called us for dinner at 5.30 pm - the bell had gone and most of the guests were already seated for dinner – this is where the first problem arose. There was no way I could sit on the floor and eat ! So they kindly arranged a short chair – all the flood was already plated and served on a 4” – 6” high table.

                      The faces of my family members have been disguised for their privacy. 

As you see from the photographs, the food was beautifully arranged; each dish. But it was tasteless as there was no salt, no spices or flavouring. I fiddled around tasting each item and ate the boiled rice, some pieces of ginger and some boiled veg. I was really hungry as were the others but there was no other food. Basically we all remained on empty stomachs. 

 Shojin ryori A vegetarian Buddhist cuisine made entirely of vegetables and edible wild plants, shojin-ryori may sound simple yet that could not be farther from the truth. Harmoniously composed into a symphony of seasonal tastes, shojin-ryori is all about bringing out the essence of its ingredients. Specialties include koya dofu and its sesame-flavored relative, goma dofu.

            

     

After dinner, we were lucky as it was the 20^th of the month – on this day, each month, they hold a grave yard walk in the dusk / early evening. Basically, it lasts for couple of hours and is around 3 kms. I was too tired to go so I stayed and wrote my travel notes instead. This walk is to pray to one’s ancestors. The group came back exhausted but happy as the walk was enlightening as the graveyard had been well lit and it was a memorable brief ceremony. 

Okunoin Cemetery is one of the most sacred areas of Mount Koya and also the largest graveyard in Japan. Deep inside the cemetery is the mountain mausoleum of Kukai, where it is believed he is still meditating and praying for our salvation. Because Kukai is so respected in Japan, his presence here has made this graveyard extremely popular and a lot of famous historical figures have their tombs here. Among over 500,000 tombs are the graves of several Buddhist saints, historical warlords such as Oda Nobunaga, and several captains of industry. English language night-time tours through the cemetery are available. These tours are both fascinating and highly atmospheric as your guide leads you through avenues of giant cedar trees lit by stone lanterns and points out the more significant graves on the route.

The next day, we did not eat breakfast at the Inn – we did not want to waste their food so we went out. Sadly, until 9.00 am no restaurant is open.  We found Tommy’s in a small back lane – we were lucky we were there early but even then, their avocado sandwiches were over! This was a mom-and-pop place and their home cooked food was delicious. We upset some folks who had to wait as our order was large – six hungry people who had not eaten since yesterday lunch.

We left the Inn and then took a beautiful road with many S curves and finally reached the cable car station at Gokurakubashi just in time for our connection to Nankai Namba.

This trip was too hectic. Whilst we got the experience of a temple inn stay, we did not realise all that it entails, especially the difficulty of sleeping on the floor. As it was literally a less than 24 hour stay, we missed out on a lot of important sights and could not appreciate the beauty of the town. We literally saw just the main Kongobuji Temple complex which is huge….luckily with a guide who was dedicated and excellent. We missed out on many sights esp the Tokugawa Mausoleum and The Reihokan. So, in conclusion, we have to sincerely thank Koyasan Shukubo Association’s Hitomi Wada san for giving us this opportunity to experience the Temple Inn. Arigatogozaimasu.

 

 

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