Saturday 3 August 2019

The grandeur of central Lima, Peru

Commodore ABL Gupta I.N. (Retd.) and I were on our way to a cruise on the River Amazon. But first we had to land in Lima.

I have already written a few blogs on Lima but this one is on the grandeur of central Lima. If you are interested, do read my Lima blogs on https://multitaskerme.blogspot.com  :
  • ·         The magical fountains of Lima - Hollywood meets Bollywood
  • ·         the ancient ruins of Pachacamac
  • ·         Ichimay Wary - Lima's artisan cooperative at Lurin - well worth a trip
  • ·         Iquitos in Peru - a city you can never reach by car
We took a flight from Miami and arrived into Lima. Flying over the Andes is an awesome sight. The mountain ranges spread magnificently and the weather being clear we had a great view. 
We stayed in the old quarter, right in the centre of all the activity – a bit noisy but this is where the main sights are. On our return from Amazon, we stayed in Miraflores, much further afield and not easy to get to unless you had transport. But at least we experienced two totally different unique parts of Lima. 
Almost all of Lima's most interesting historical sites are within walking distance of the Plaza de Armas, the sprawling main square, which is spectacular.  The fountain in the centre can be used as a slightly off-centre compass.  The bronze angel's trumpet points due north, where you'll see the Palacio de Gobierno. To the west is the neo-colonial Municipalidad de Lima. To the east are the Cathedral and the adjoining Episcopal Palace. The Cathedral, one of the most striking in South America, was our first point of sightseeing. It is magnificent. Don’t miss the tour inside. 


Considered the most beautiful city in Spanish America from the 15th C onwards and the seat of government, Lima retains a certain elegance, particularly in colonial central Lima.  













A group of Lima's finest, replicating the style of their north american brothers, pose for me. 
 
Head north on Jirón Carabaya, the street running beside the Palacio de Gobierno, until you reach the butter-yellow Estación de Desamparados, the former train station. Follow the street as it curves to the east. In a block you'll reach the Convento de San Francisco, which has one of the city's most spectacular colonial-era churches.
The Presidential Palace is quite impressive and there is the daily Changing of the Guard ceremony which attracts many tourists. Its good fun but nowhere as impressive as that of London. 
Down by a small side square, a group of youngsters practice a series of dance steps for a dance competition scheduled later that day. 

Casa Riva-Agüero  Jr. Camaná 459 El Centro - A pair of balconies with celosías—intricate wood screens through which ladies could watch passersby unobserved—grace the facade of this rambling mansion from 1760. Step inside and the downtown traffic fades away as you stroll across the stone courtyard and admire the ancient balconies and woodwork. 
 
We went into a restaurant in the main square and sat overlooking the whole square. Weather was great. The food was eatable. The ambience was better. The scene -  just awesome. I have taken photos showing you the full square on each side. Enjoy its antiquity. 

 

We visited the square in the evening and it had turned totally different. 
Art and crafts are very popular in Lima. Its a large tourist market too. Here you have a craftman making an item out of hard wood and the lady works on gourds.   













Crowded into the mouth of the rid Rimac river valley, with low sandy mountains closing in around its outer fringes, Lima is a boisterous, macho sprawl of a city, full of beaten-up cars chasing Mercedes and 4WDs: this is a place where money rules, with an irresistible, underlying energy. A large part of the city’s appeal is its fascinating mix of lifestyles and cultures: from the snappy, sassy, cocaine-influenced criolla style to the easy-going, happy-go-lucky attitude of Lima’s poorer citizens. Somehow, though, it still manages to appear relaxed and laidback in the barrios and off the beaten track, and the noisy, frenetic craziness of it all is mellowed somewhat by the presence of the sea and beaches. 

This is one of the most famous restaurants of Lima and you will find the recipe of Pisco Sour created in Lima many decades ago.

Lima has a thriving art market and shops selling traditional designs which are very popular.  



Miraflores   With flower-filled parks and wide swaths of green overlooking the ocean, it's no wonder locals flock to this seaside suburb. Miraflores has Lima's best selection of hotels and restaurants, which is why most people stay here in the city's cultural hub. There are plenty of boutiques and galleries and bars, cafés, and dance clubs. At its centre is Parque Miraflores, sitting like a slice of pie between Avenida José Larco and Avenida Diagonal. On the eastern side is the Iglesia de la Virgen Milagrosa, the neighbourhood’s largest church. The colonial-style building next door is the Palacio Municipal de Miraflores, where most governmental business takes place. 



I had to add this wonderful night shot of Miami as we returned from our Amazon and Peru vacation. A reminder of being back in the hustle and bustle of daily grind. 

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Text and photographs are copyright of the author. No part of any article or photographs maybe transmitted or reproduced by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without written permission. Do contact the author on email -- helpthesun@gmail.com